I had been planning to make a spring coat and it has been floating around in the back of my mind. Spring is progressing rapidly and I know I need to get started.
Work, Garden, and Mason’s schedules conspired against daytime sewing in the past week. Late afternoon sun and lack of AC conspired against sewing in the evenings. I therefore decided that I would not make this coat for the event on the 12th as previously planned (for other reasons as well). However there are three (possibly four) dressy to formal events between the 20th of May and June 17th, with cool evenings normal well into June, so I know there will still be wearing opportunities ahead.
I had a vague image in my head when I bought the fabric, a nice black organza with multicolored pastel pink ribbons or yarn woven through it:
I was inspired by these four coats from the spring collections:
I also admit that I was tempted by the coat that Kathryn made using an old Balenciaga one-seam coat pattern, as well as Ann Rowley’s subsequent version. But I am not convinced that I will be able to fold the fabric to match, nor am I convinced that I bought enough fabric for that coat, as it was not on my mental horizon when I bought the fabric
After spending some time with my pattern collection, I finally narrowed the choices down from many to one most likely, shown here:
Although this isn’t really like any of the inspiration coats, it does have the contrast fabric as seen in the Donna Karan (bottom right) and Proenza Schouler (top left) coats. Most tellingly the thought of this fabric in this design is really growing on me. I don’t have enough fabric for an extravagantly full coat, but I think I can get this coat out of the fabric at hand, even in a longer length than shown on the pattern envelope. At least I hope I can.
I don’t have any fabric in my stash that I would use for the contrast on this coat. Below is a photo showing a sample of a pink charmeuse from Thai Silks that goes pretty nicely. It is a strong contender.
But I haven’t decided if I am going to line the coat, probably necessary, and if so with what kind of fabric. I want to maintain the light airiness of the coat so the most likely contenders are georgette, chiffon or more organza. Of course each of these would give a different effect. Black lining would meld in with the background fabric of the coat, and I have black georgette and organza in stock, but I am wondering about using a colored lining, perhaps to match the contrast band. I think the contrast lining would just light and spring-like, whereas black seems almost too boring for this coat.
What do you think?
I don’t think Thai Silks has georgette or organza to match the Charmeuse. I am pretty sure I can find silks in NYC, there are usually coordinated sets of silks in the same color and the pink and light green that I am favoring are both popular colors at the moment, I don’t think I would have trouble finding them in a Charmeuse or Satin with a matching georgette or organza. The collection at Mood, from which I selected my gray silk 4 ply, comes immediately to mind. The question is, when would I get there?
In the meantime I need to make a muslin before I cut into this beautiful fabric.
Comments
6 responses to “Spring Coat”
You could almost make it reversible, and that would take care of the lining, too. I like the pink (but I would!) and I agree that the black is too boring and predictable, especially for a Spring Coat, which is almost the ultimate in frivolity. I think that’s why they’re so appealing! You could send a swatch to Mood if you need a perfect match, and can’t go. Can’t wait to see what you do with this. The Balenciaga doesn’t really take that much fabric, but the change of direction of the stripes would be obvious, and perhaps unwelcome. It could be great, though.
You could almost make it reversible, and that would take care of the lining, too. I like the pink (but I would!) and I agree that the black is too boring and predictable, especially for a Spring Coat, which is almost the ultimate in frivolity. I think that’s why they’re so appealing! You could send a swatch to Mood if you need a perfect match, and can’t go. Can’t wait to see what you do with this. The Balenciaga doesn’t really take that much fabric, but the change of direction of the stripes would be obvious, and perhaps unwelcome. It could be great, though.
Mardel ~ I am going to be contrary and say go with the black lining. It will make the contrast really noticeable and will create more of a high drama look! That’s too me! Whatever you decide I am sure it will look fantastic.
Mardel ~ I am going to be contrary and say go with the black lining. It will make the contrast really noticeable and will create more of a high drama look! That’s too me! Whatever you decide I am sure it will look fantastic.
Mardel, I think I’d go for the pink lining–if you get really ambitious you could custom-dye organza to match/blend with the contrast fabric. Now, in my case that would mean that the spring coat would be ready next spring!
Mardel, I think I’d go for the pink lining–if you get really ambitious you could custom-dye organza to match/blend with the contrast fabric. Now, in my case that would mean that the spring coat would be ready next spring!