Category: Spring Coat

  • First Muslin

    Springcoatmuslin1a

    The soil separator paper works well for muslins and is nice to work with, at least for a basic first fitting muslin.  The fabric sticks to itself so it is easy to position seams together, and also easy to see where the garment is too tight, or there is not enough ease, as the fabric certainly has none. 

    The pattern, Vogue 7833, went together well and hangs nicely. I think I will like this coat very much.  The coat tapers in at the bottom, which is nice, but I had altered the shape a little when I lengthened the coat.  It is not quite right, I eliminated a little width right where I needed it at the hips and I will have to add that back in, plus probably another inch or so.

    The only other fitting problem for me is that it is a little snug across the shoulders:  It feels snug when I stand still, and the tightness is quite noticeable when I move my arms.  Although I do need a little width across the shoulders, I am wondering if part of the problem is the raglan shaping.  I think I will fix the shoulder width first and see how that feels.  I will have to be careful as I don’t need extra width through the bust, just through the shoulders, and I have to think a little bit about how to go about this on a raglan coat.

  • Prep

    Mondays are always busy days, but they are also days with a kind of dual existence. Years of training has led me to treat Mondays as the first day of the working week, the week we catch up from the lax behavior of the weekend, and yet, in this household at least, Monday is still part of the weekend simply because G does not go back to work until Tuesday.

    It has taken us a few years to settle into a working 3/4 schedule that fits well with our plans, personalities, and dreams, but we seem to have settled into a grove of sorts.  Sometimes Monday is a play day and sometimes it is a work day.  This week it was mostly work.   G got the mowing done as this was really the first day dry enough to mow for over a week and I was given some time to get things taken care of in the house.  The repair guy came for the oven.  It was the heating element, something new.  He expected it to be a fuse.  15 years with this oven and I’ve gone through 5 oven fuses, although we’ve never had to change the other one, for the stove top – is that weird or what.  We also have never had the heating element go before.

    Somehow household chores are always more pleasant when you are both working, even on separate tasks, with little breaks over the water bottle under the shade tree and interruptions of companiable conversation. Mondays often include time for a slower breakfast, pondering a second cup of coffee, and a lunch spent together.

    Although we eat a great deal of local produce, especially in the summer months, and very little processed or prepared convenience foods, last night G asked for one of his favorite dinners, Spaghetti with Tuna. The primary ingredients come from cans:

    Prep1

    The tomatoes could have been local, had I put up tomatoes last year, but I didn’t.  There are only a few other ingredients:

    Prep2

    The recipe is by Marcella Hazan in The Classic Italian Cookbook.  It has been a favorite so long that I just know it.  It really needs flat leaf  parsley.  The shallots were a substitute, nice but without that special intensity the sauteed parsley brings to the dish.  I thought I had parsley; imagine my chagrin that instead I had two bunches of cilantro.  Shallots had to substitute. I suppose Thai or Mexican cuisine is in our future. The pasta with tuna sauce and a big salad of baby lettuce, baby bok choy seedlings, radishes, and slender baby carrots made for a lovely dinner with a glass of red wine. 

    After dinner I finally got back to the sewing room and cut out the pattern for the coat, Vogue 7833.  I attempted to check the pattern for errors but got nowhere.  I don’t know what to look for in a raglan sleeve coat. This was when it dawned on me that  I have never made a raglan sleeve garment of any sort.  My mom made them for me when I was little.  I was told they fit better.  But somehow I got it in my head that I didn’t want raglan sleeves and avoided them like the plague in my own sewing adventures.  Well, it is about time to begin.   

    Springcoatmuslin1

    I traced off the pattern onto “soil separator paper” lengthening it by 10 inches while I did so.  The coat would be short for me regardless. At 29" it wouldn’t quite cover my bottom, much less hang nicely below the crotch line as illustrated in the line drawings.   But I wanted this to be longer even than illustrated.  I will probably go longer yet, but I need to see the first draft.

    I decided to try making the first muslin out of the soil separator paper.  It looks sturdy enough to sew.  It is thinner than PatternEase, but should still work.  It might not hang as well as a coat, it is clingy, but it will at least tell me if I am headed in the right direction.  I don’t really like this stuff as pattern paper – it is hard to read what you write on it, it clings to everything, markers bleed through it, but it is so sheer that you can trace even the palest most difficult lines.  It would be nice if I can also use it for muslins.  If the muslin idea doesn’t work, this roll will be my last.

    I am hoping to get the muslin stitched together today and then we will see what happens.  It looks simple.  Hopefully it will work well.

  • Pinks

    My fabric order from Thai Silks arrived, including the proposed fabric for the contrast fronts on the spring coat.  Of course since, I was placing an order for one piece of fabric, it seemed such a shame not to order more, so three pieces actually wended their way cross country to my house:

    Springcoatfabric

    The pink piece on the far left is for the coat.  The rose fabric in the middle will either be a dress or skirt and blouse, and the plaid dupioni is intended to be a spring/summer dress.

    After reading all the discussions on SewingWorld and Stitcher’s Guild about sewing with silk thread, I decided that this would be the perfect test project.  I had previously ordered a sample booklet for Tire silk threads and I ordered threads for this project.  I ordered silk topstitching thread as well, to give it a try.

    Then, I went to S&S to pick up some more Mettler thread, my normal sewing thread, because there were a couple of colors I needed for the stuffed creatures.  While I was there they were very happy to show me the new embroidery threads they were carrying, including this lovely top-stitching thread:

    Springcoatfabricthread

    I was, of course, tempted.  So now I will have to play with topstitching and see which one I like best.    Well, actually, I have to test the pattern first…

  • Spring Coat

    I had been planning to make a spring coat and it has been floating around in the back of my mind.  Spring is progressing rapidly and I know I need to get started.

    Work, Garden, and Mason’s schedules conspired against daytime sewing in the past week.  Late afternoon sun and lack of AC conspired against sewing in the evenings.  I therefore decided that I would not make this coat for the event on the 12th as previously planned (for other reasons as well).  However there are three (possibly four) dressy to formal events between the 20th of May and June 17th, with cool evenings normal well into June, so I know there will still be wearing opportunities  ahead.

    I had a vague image in my head when I bought the fabric, a nice black organza with multicolored pastel pink ribbons or yarn woven through it:

    Springcoatdesign1

    I was inspired by these four coats from the spring collections:

    Springcoatinspirations

    I also admit that I was tempted by the coat that Kathryn made using an old Balenciaga one-seam coat pattern, as well as Ann Rowley’s  subsequent version.  But I am not convinced that I will be able to fold the fabric to match, nor am I convinced that I bought enough fabric for that coat, as it was not on my mental horizon when I bought the fabric

    After spending some time with my pattern collection, I finally narrowed the choices down from many to one most likely, shown here:

    Springcoatdesign2

    Although this isn’t really like any of the inspiration coats, it does have the contrast fabric as seen in the Donna Karan (bottom right) and Proenza Schouler (top left) coats.  Most tellingly the thought of this fabric in this design is really growing on me.  I don’t have enough fabric for an extravagantly full coat, but I think I can get this coat out of the fabric at hand, even in a longer length than shown on the pattern envelope. At least I hope I can.

    I don’t have any fabric in my stash that I would use for the contrast on this coat.  Below is a photo showing a sample of a pink charmeuse from Thai Silks that goes pretty nicely.  It is a strong contender. 

    Springcoatdesign3_1

    But I haven’t decided if I am going to line the coat, probably necessary, and if so with what kind of fabric.  I want to maintain the light airiness of the coat so the most likely contenders are georgette, chiffon or more organza.  Of course each of these would give a different effect.  Black lining would meld in with the background fabric of the coat, and I have black georgette and organza in stock,  but I am wondering about using a colored lining, perhaps to match the contrast band. I think the contrast lining would just light and spring-like, whereas black seems almost too boring for this coat.

    What do you think?

    I don’t think Thai Silks has georgette or organza to match the Charmeuse.  I am pretty sure I can find silks in NYC, there are usually coordinated sets of silks in the same color and the pink and light green that I am favoring are both popular colors at the moment, I don’t think I would have trouble finding them in a Charmeuse or Satin with a matching georgette or organza.  The collection at Mood, from which I selected my gray silk 4 ply, comes immediately to mind.  The question is, when would I get there?       

    In the meantime I need to make a muslin before I cut into this beautiful fabric.