Author: 459856pwpadmin

  • 5 Reasons

    Five reasons I might be able to sew this weekend:

    1.      The mason is still working on the foundations in the areas occupied by raised beds which are attached/next to the house.

    2.        The 4×4’s needed for the raised beds are not completely stained yet and then have to dry.  The top 3 sides will be dry by Saturday morning, when I can turn them over and stain the fourth side.  Even then, they will not be ready to use before Monday.

    3.       The iris bed is not next to the house, but I have no place to put the irises as all my pots are filled with the plants that belong in the beds where the mason is working; therefore, I cannot dig up the iris bed.

    4.        My back is too sore from bending over painting 4x4s, and the arthritis in my hands is acting up, so it will be hard to dig.

    5.        I haven’t yet purchased the gravel for the french drain that will have to run through the middle of the iris bed.  Even if I purchase the gravel, my back is too sore to unload it from my car.  My DH would happily purchase the gravel and unload it, but then I would feel obliged to start digging and nothing else is ready (see items 1-3 above).

    Surely, given the above, I can find some time away from the distractions of  a summer weekend to play in my sewing room.

  • Pattern alteration info — Purple Rain

    I forgot something when I posted about my purple rain jacket yesterday. 

    As a reminder, the jacket was made from this Vogue Pattern:
    Butterfly5

    The pieces went together very easily and I really had no problems putting the top together.  The fit issues I have complained about are more my own fit issues than problems with the pattern.

    However I did need to alter the sleeve a little bit.  I first cut a draft sleeve and basted it in and found that I had drag lines on the sleeve.  This is not that unusual of a problem (hence the draft).  To solve it I simply added 1/2 inch in height to the sleeve cap, which was originally pretty flat.  This made it slightly curved but did not add so much length as to make easing the sleeve difficult. The coated silk was somewhat difficult to ease and if it went in without difficulty, I would imagine that most other fabrics would as well.

    Here is a picture of the original pattern piece, with my altered pattern underneath it.  I cut my pattern out of "soil separator paper" and it is very sheer and hard to see so I traced the line on a piece of paper just so you can see the edge a little better.

    Butterfly6

    I make the sleeve cap 1/2" higher at the center dot and tapered to nothing at the seamlines.

  • Purple Rain

    I finally stopped looking at the purple silk water-repellant top and just finished it.  Here I am celebrating:
    Purplerain7I am pretty happy with the way it turned out with a few qualifications.  I like it better worn open than closed still.  I still don’t like the way it hangs on me closed.  Partly this is due the the way the front closure hangs.  The center front line doesn’t hang straight at the center front, if I measure and check it.  To make that happen I would have to reshape the pieces.  I think this is due to my own particular architecture not the pattern.  I also don’t like the drop shoulders, the way they bunch under the arms.  It might be better with a stiffer fabric as this one tends to cling to the body; although there is lots of room the garment looks closer fitting that in actually is. The drop shoulders would also be something that I might want to fiddle with on the pattern.  I do like the basic shape and the basic idea.  I will hold on to the pattern for now and see if I fiddle with it and explore the options.  I always want to do this — some perverse determination to make everything work if at all possible — but the pressures of time and always shifting interests often keep me from accomplishing these goals.

    I had originally thought I would line the top to hide the white underside of the fabric and the seams, but then thought it was too much work.  I think it would have just made the garment heavier and more hot.  One of its main advantages is that it is incredibly light and not particularly hot to wear, even on muggy humid summer days.  The lining would have just been more work and my own conflicting emotions about this piece would have made the lining process that much more of a burden.  As it was I did not always take as much care as usual.  Unfortunately, I am no perfectionist.

    Below is a basic flat shot of the garment, very shiny in the light.  I decided to ditch the button and use hidden hooks and thread loops to close the jacket, closing the buttonholes and moving the closure over just a little, ending up in a compromise position between center front and the larger overlap shown earlier.   Both pictures will enlarge if you click on them.

    Purplerain8Purplerain9

  • Forgotten Vegetables

    We dined tonight on radish greens.  Oh, how sad that sounds, and yet it wasn’t really.   What is this obsession of mine with saving bits of vegetables in bags in the freezer?   Onion and garlic peels with bits of bone become a wonderful stock.  Such a stock enhanced our soup tonight.  We had a mexican style bean and green soup, pretty much stolen from Rick Bayless, although he doesn not necessarily recommend radish greens in his recipe.  The American cook-book buying public would probably revolt if a celebrity chef recommended radish greens in a recipe.

    The soup was excellent.  We have had it before; I love it, George is less entranced, he is not as fond of the slightly fuzzy nature of the radish greens, although he was surprised to find that he adores carrot tops, another waste-bin vegetable.

    I cooked beans in my secondary stock, made from various trimmings then added some sauteed onion and bits of dried pasilla chile that had been soaked and blended with tomatoes and roasted garlic.  The greens were stirred in after all the other ingredients were tender; at the last minute we added shredded tortilla strips that had been baked instead of fried.

    It is not that I am excessively frugal with all things, I can be quite wasteful in fact, not something about which I am always proud.  If the fruits of my efforts from hording little bits of foods in bags in the freezer were less delicious, I would not be nearly so eager to continue.  As it is the refrigerator and freezer are filled with food yet there is nothing to eat; at least, there is nothing one can just reach in and grab to eat out of hand.

  • The Farmer’s Market is Open!!
    Time for summer cooking and grocery shopping fun.

    Tonight’s Menu
    Peanut Noodles with Shredded Chicken and Vegetables
    Japanese-Style Cucumber and Radish Salad

  • Major Changes Needed for Environmental Movement?

    The attempt to catch up with my reading backlog led me, from the April 23, 2005 Economist, to an essay called The Death of Environmentalism  by Michael Shellenberger and Ted Nordham, which basically argues that environmental groups have grown out of touch with the world in which they need to function and negotiate for change, and they have reached this state of their own accord by defining themselves and their role in a way that has led to "a kind of policy literalism that undermines its power".

    Very interesting reading.

    One of the main themes of this essay is how the environmentalists and environmental organizations treat the environment as a thing, separate from the human sphere of activity, something that has to be protected by us but is otherwise separate from our lives.  This is basically a mistake in that it is hard to build up enough interest and support to make serious changes happen.  If the environment is something separate from our lives it does not really have to be high on our list of priorities, not like jobs, or health-care or various other issues that define our roles in the world and how we view the world and ourselves in it.

    "Most environmentalists don’t think of "the environment" as a mental category at  all — they think of it as a real "thing" to be protected and defended.  They think of themselves, literally, as representatives and defenders of this thing.  Environmentalists do their work as though these are literal rather than figurative truths.  They tend to see language in general as representative rather than constitutive of reality.  This is typical of liberals, who are, at their core, children of the enlightenment who believe that they arrived at their identity and politics through a rational and considered process.  They expect others in politics should do the same and are constantly surprised and disappointed when they don’t."

    "The effects of this orientation is a certain literal-sclerosis — the belief that social change happens only when people speak a literal "truth to power".  Literal-sclerosis can be seen in the assumption that to win action on global warming one must talk about global warming instead of, say, the economy, industrial policy, or health care."

    The environmental movement needs to find a way to make environmental issues important to people’s set of values, in the way they view the world and their role in that world.  After all, we are a part of the environment in which we live, and protecting "the environment" is only one of many issues.  It is a very important issue to be sure, but one that the very movement that the very movement that is supposedly dedicated to helping it has relegated to an almost invisible role.

    The authors of The Death of Environmentalism  see the progress on the Kyoto protocol as a success for European greens, but not, for obvious reasons, for their American counterparts.  The Economist points out, quite rightly, that the success of Kyoto actually masks a larger failure in that both European and American green groups are deeply suspicious of market-based instruments for use in aiding the environment.  The Europeans encouraged Kyoto to pass but they fought new market-based initiatives and new third-generation technology tooth and nail, with a deep intensity bordering on Philistinism.  A deeply disturbing trend…

    This seems to me to be a dangerous thing.  The world is changing  rapidly and the ability of individual governments to regulate and control the environment, and the people and companies who play a role in its future, is growing more limited as the world becomes ore open and connected.  As companies become more global in their scope and markets become more open, they cannot be controlled by any singular government.  It will probably become more important to openly court consumers and manufacturers directly, to use market forces as a power for environmental awareness and to emphasize care of the environment as a global commodity that  helps individual consumers and the companies that sell goods to them produce better products and live better lives.

    In the Economist  of April 23, 2005, in two articles "Rescuing Environmentalism"  and "Are You Being Served, Environmental Economics",  a type of environmentalism that employs a type of cost-benefit analysis is recommended.  There are certain benefits to this.  We know far more about the true value of the environment and its cost and value to societies than we used to.  For environmental movements  to really have leverage they must be able to use this analysis and convince communities that saving the environment is important in more than just and idealized way.  They need to make the environment and important part of our everyday lives, both socially and economically.  Of course we are intrinsically linked to the environment, we live in it after all, but this fact is not played up in most environmental reform pushes.

    Three things are recommended by the Economist:
    1.        Prices must be set correctly through liquid markets.
    2.        Proper information must be gathered and made available.  The tendency to view the environment as a"free good" must be tempered with the understanding of what it does for humanity and how.
    3.        The embrace of cost-benefit analysis…Some things in nature are irreplaceable — literally priceless.  Even so, it is essential to consider trade-offs when analyzing almost all green problems.

    One of the problems I see arising from all this is not how governments and populations and even large companies approach environmental issues, but how all of this affects individual landowners.  As it stands, the environmental movement has sometimes come head to head with people who support the IDEA of environmentalism but find the environmentalists pushing restrictive bans on individual property use that protect narrowly defined species or types of ecosystem , without really making any attempt to relate the benefits of these actions to the landowners themselves.

    If each person’s property has an impact on its neighbors, both near and far, decisions on how to handle property become much more complex and the possibilities for creating conflict magnify.  Of course, in American culture the almost inalienable right of a property-holder to determine the fate of his/her land is well ingrained, and it is not necessarily in the society’s best interest to do away with this traditional view of the rights of humans over land.  Much negotiation and education is still  required.  I suppose this is the kind of thing that Miriam is working on, although I have not really read her Master’s thesis yet.

    To illustrate this idea and give the mind ample opportunity to think of the implications, I will quote this bit of information from the Economist, from the article entitled "Are you Being Served? Environmental Economics":

    "The importance of insect pollination to the quality and quantity of agricultural crops such as coffee, almonds, and apples, has only recently become appreciated.  Last year a study in Costa Rica found
    that on one farm alone the natural pollination of coffee by insects was worth $60,000.  Coffee yields were 20% higher on plots that lay within a kilometer of a natural forest."

    How do you weigh the benefits of the forest to the owner of the forest versus his/her neighbors? Should the forest owner receive some compensation for the greater yields his forest provides for neighboring planters because his property makes their production levels possible?  What if the forest owner sees his neighbor the planter become rich while he struggles to feed his family from his native forest?  We as a society cannot ask him to suffer for the good of the whole while he watches others grow rich off a commodity that is, by some rights, his.  Who will decide these things?  How do you decide how to regulate land use and still give people some autonomy over their lives?  How do you decide these things without causing wars?  We need some way to guarantee people sustainable, comfortable, minimum standards of living, while appreciating their different contributions and allowing them opportunity to advance their skills and resources to do better economically and we also need to make valuing and protecting environmental resources a recognizable environmental good with adequate recompense by society.

    You cannot really separate the environment from the rest of society.  Humankind has tried this for many centuries.  Look where it has gotten us.

  • Reversible Shell

    I finally finished the reversible shell.  It really did not take that long to make, I just worked on it a few minutes a day for a few days.

    Lilacblocks8_1The view you see here is a mystery fabric that I found on a remnant table at Britex in San Francisco.  It is a kind of mesh like knit, very stretchy, and very sheer, with a sheer black net-like backing.  It is probably nylon.  It melts very easily but I did not do a burn test on it, just accidentally hit a corner of the backing with the iron.

    Here is a picture of the fabric held up against the window:
    Lilacblocks2_2

     

     

    You can see how sheer it is, much too sheer to wear by itself without layering, lining or significant draping (or all three).  I found a lilac rayon/Lycra knit that coordinates with the lilac color in the print very nicely.  The rayon is also quite light, almost a lingerie weight, lighter than I would normally use by itself, but perfect for combining with the printed mesh to make a two-layer reversible top.

    From here on down, those of you who sew far better than I can ignore this post as I am going to go into all the boring detail about this simple top.  Part of my reason for making this blog is for myself, to keep a record of what I do and why because I am inclined to forget and then run around like crazy trying to remember where I put the instructions for something, or how I did something and so forth.  A blog is actually easier than filing pieces of paper, which I invariably lose.

    The following pictures will all enlarge if you click on them.

    Lilacblocks1_2

    Butterick3124_2

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Here is a picture of the pattern pieces cut out.  I cut one complete top out of each fabric.  No facings or other pieces are required.


    The pattern is an OOP Butterick pattern, 3124.  It contains instructions for making the top that are quite clear.  I forget that they are there as I have applied this technique to so many things.  I think I originally got the instructions from Sandra Betzina’s e-mail newsletter and they are available on her website  for those that subscribe.

    Lilacblocks3_1Of course the first step on any top is to reinforce the neckline, I used a fusible twill tape.    Then I sewed the darts on the two fronts.  After that you combine the two fabrics to make a two-layer front and a two-layer back.  This is done by sewing the fronts together at the neck and armhole seams and then doing the same for the back. Sew the pieces right sides together, (you can see them pinned for sewing here)  LEAVE THE SHOULDER SEAMS OPEN!! It is important, when pinning the front pieces together at the armhole, to make sure that the darts are lined up on both pieces.  If one dart is lower than the other (from the armhole) the shirt will not hang and drape correctly.  This seems obvious, but it is easy to forget in thrill of construction.

    Here are the two pieces, sewn, trimmed, and Lilacblocks4turned. The pattern instructions tell you to trim and press the front of the top but not the back.  I have found that, for me at least, it is better to trim and turn both pieces and press them very flat while they are separate.  It is then pretty easy to open the back back out, wrong side out and press the seam allowance flat again for the next step.  By putting in these few minutes of extra pressing you get a much better looking end result and I have fewer problems putting the pieces together.

    The next step is to put the two pieces together and sew the shoulder seams.  You do this by leaving the front right side out and sliding it up inside the back, which has been turned  so that the wrong sides are facing outward (toward you).  This way the two right sides are facing each other when you sew:
    Lilacblocks6Lilacblocks5_1

    Once the shoulders are sewn, trimmed, and pressed the top can be tried on for any final tweaking of the fit and the side seams can be sewn as one continual piece on each side:

     Lilacblocks7_1Then all that is necessary  is to press the seams and hem the layers, leaving each side hanging free.

     

  • Out, Out Damn Spot!

    This is not an info-mercial, but it sounds like it could be.

    George came home and announced a minor disaster had occurred.  Somehow, during the course of the day at the office, his pen leaked ink all over the front of his favorite yellow and white striped shirt.  There was a very deep blue spot, quite large at the bottom of the pocket and several smaller dots of ink lower down.

    After trying all the usual remedys for ink of various sorts (it was one of those gel pens), and reading every article about stain removal in every book in the house that might contain such information, old or new,  the spot was still a deep permanent-seeming beacon of blueness.  It didn’t look like it had faded much although many many blue spots through a thick white cleaning towel belied that impression.

    The shirt was lost….

    Then, because there was nothing else to do, I thought "Why don’t I soak it in Biz".  Biz works for many things ( i have no association with this company whatsoever).  I use it every week to soak the sheets before I wash them.  I have white sheets that are 10 years old that are still as white as the driven snow and still in good shape (unlike chlorine bleach which destroys the fabric over time and doesn’t just eat the dull prespiration stains the way Biz does).  I used Biz to get old stains out of my grandmothers’s tablecloths many many years ago, and find it will still get a lot of old stains out as long as you are willing to use a goodly amount of biz and let it soak for plenty of time.

    Biz says nothing about ink and I was not convinced it would work  But I made a concentrate of Biz in a bucket and put the shirt in overnight.  By morning, the ink was significantly lighter on the shirt, a shadow of its former self really and the soapy water had a definite blue tinge.  Another bucket of biz and another few hours soaking and the shirt was as new, no ink, no ring-around-the collar, a perfect shirt.

    Thank you Biz.  Why did I never think of this before?  I have to go out of my way to buy Biz as most stores around me don’t carry it.  I buy multiple boxes at a time because I have not found anything else that keeps the sheets as nice of that gets miscellaneous impossible stains out of tablecloths.

  • Better Late than Never

    One of these days I will actually mulch the perennial bed before all the plants come up:

    Frontbed1_1It would definitely be much easier, rather than lovingly moving mulch around each plant.  Of course that is fun too.  I enjoy moving between the plants.  My back would rather just dump the mulch, spread it, and be done with it.

    Life without challenges would not be much fun.

  • Knits are It

    I finally succumbed to the lure of EmmaOneSock‘s new fabrics and ordered a couple of pieces.  I was actually far more moderate than if I had jumped right in and ordered when I first started getting the e-mails about new Italian fabrics and sales and so forth.   I would check out the fabrics a couple of times a week, dream about what I would sew, shop and sew vicariously through the posts on sewzine and otherwise remind myself that I have a big stack of fabric right next to my computer waiting to be sewn.

    Nonetheless, the call of fabric is like a siren call — it cannot be completely resisted for the fabric knows who is most tempted by its lures and sends out its signals sure and strong.  I placed an order this morning; the fabric will be shipped on Monday.

    This is what I ordered:
    Onionskin_paisleypurple  You can see the details here.   I  am imagining that it  wants to be a dress.  I’m not sure and will reserve judgment until it actually arrives.  I have sewn tops out of onionskin but have never sewn a dress and am not sure how that will work.  It could be just the pattern that says "dress" and the fabric will say something else when it actually lands in my sewing room.  It will be draped over Matilda and its true nature will come out.

    I also purchased this cotton knit, one of the promised Italian knits:

    Cotton_bluetech

    Here are the details.

    I think this one is REALLY COOL and must admit I looked at it for a week and drooled, but put it and aside in a folder and thought about it along with two other fabrics,  this  mosaic knit  which sold out and is not really my color anyway, and this Matte Jersey, which I still love but decided not to buy because I have a couple of pieces of matte jersey I have never sewn and there is no point to buying more, no matter how pretty.

    My initial thought on this is that it will make a really neat sweater set that will go with a lot of things in my wardrobe.  Of course I still have to look at the actual fabric and see if I think I would wear it in that form, It depends on how busy the fabric looks draped over Matilda.   I know I love the fabric but I have trouble translating how I imagine the print from a picture, to how I think I will like the garment.  I need to let the fabric work its magic when it arrives, I know something wonderful will be born.