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Well, the linen swatches I ordered from Denver Fabrics finally arrived, through no real fault of theirs — I always have trouble with those website order forms. My mail comes to a PO Box, but deliveries come to the house. The post office tells me that I should be able to put my street address on the first line of the address and the PO Box on the second and that way both UPS and the Postal Service know where the mail goes. That may be the case (Dave, the local UPS driver tells me this is so), however whoever designs web order forms does not know this because every time I try it I get a message back that UPS cannot deliver to PO Boxes. It would seem simple enough, most forms only require an address in the first line of the address field, so they should just ignore whatever is printed on the second line. Somehow, life is never that simple.

To make a long story short, my delivery address is my home address and my billing address is at the PO. However the swatches were mailed, not sent UPS — hence a mix-up occurred. They finally came Saturday, by mail.

The burgundy linen swatch will be a border for the multi-colored blue and burgundy cotton tablecloth. I will probably also make napkins and napkins out of a green linen which coordinates well, but did not make as nice a statement with the fabric as this burgundy does.

The slate gray linen will be used with the gray abstract geometric cotton. I have actually had a hard time finding the perfect gray for this fabric and happy to have finally succeeded. I already have black linen napkins, but gray ones might be a nice change.

The fabric might be here by the end of the week, but I will be in NYC over the weekend so the tablecloths will have to wait a little longer.

July 10, 2005
Disaster averted

It is best that moments of quiet desperation not threaten to break their bounds at one of one’s closest friend’s son’s wedding. Luckily events of the evening conspire to keep emotions under wraps and all is hidden again.

July 9, 2005
Armani Fall Couture

I hve been thinking about sewing the yellow linen pants. I know it seems surprising that such as simple thing as drawstring pants could require so much thought, but in my case it does. I have also been busy and just too tired to sew, especially when I am not yet sure what I am doing. I know I should just bodly go forward and tackle the project. Perhaps tommorrow,as I will be out most of the day today, first taking Adam to the airport and then going to the wedding of a friend’s son.

However, I have started looking at the fall couture show photos on stye.com. I have really only gotten through Armani so far, but there is lots more looking and dreaming ahead. I know, this blog seems more about dreaming about sewing than actual sewing…

Following are a couple of things I liked, all from Armani Prive, all courtesy of style.com .

I really really like the shape of this little jacket. It is, to my mind the nicest of the day clothes shown in the phtoos from style. Some of the other day jackets are nice but a are a little too overtly feminine and flirty for me. The dart/tuck shaping around the neck and shoulders is very sleek and flattering here and the jacket looks modern, sleek and feminine.

I am pretty confident that I have a pattern I could adapt for a variation on this look and it is really making me look forward to fall sewing.

(Ha!! I wont start fall sewing until the leaves start falling off the trees, I know myself too well. But I will probably think about it.)

I do like the front shaping on this jacket, but it is far too
revealing as shown here. It would be beautiful as an evening look over
a simple silk or lace shell and a long skirt or drapey pants.

The second evening look is very clean and simple and I especially like the contrast of the fabric, matt with rich.

July 9, 2005
Aqua Top

Well, I finally finished something, the top made from the Nancy Erickson aqua pebble knit.

Here is the pattern I used:

The Pattern, vogue 2483, is OOP. I originally purchased it for the top with its diagonal dart. I did not think I liked the shrug but I see how this could be a really cute transitional outfit, post workout perhaps, although I don’t think this is what was originally intended.

You can click on both photos to enlarge which might especially be helpful with the line drawings.

The top is self lined and top-stitched all around. The original design might have been meant for double faced fabric, although Vogue Patterns never tells you this, and I think it would be very nice in a double faced fabric fabric, maybe even a knit, although perhaps a firm knit like this one, not a really stretchy knit.

The pattern calls for the front pieces to be interfaced with a fusible interfacing, and for a more drapey fabric such a a lightweight flannel or wool crepe this would be necessary. The cotton pebble knit is pretty firm and I did not think it needed the interfacing. The top turned out very nicely without it.

First I sewed and top-stitched the front darts and sewed the fronts together at the center. Then I sewed the back darts and inserted the zipper. The pattern calls for a centered zipper but I used an invisible zipper. I did try a new technique though, at least for me.

I inserted the invisible zipper in the outside fabric in the standard manner, before sewing the center back seam, lining up the zipper along the fabric edge and sewing in place. I had previously trimmed by center back seam to 1/2". I lined the zipper up at the top so that the top of the zipper teeth were just a scant 1/8 inch below the neckline seam-line as I wanted a clean finish at the neck with no hook and eye. After the zipper was in place I sewed the lower part of the center back seam.

Next, I attached the back lining to the zipper seam. This was new for me. I had never done it before. I usually sew the garment and then hand sew the lining to the zipper tape after the garment is constructed, using the opening of the lining around the zipper to turn the garment inside out so I can attach the pieces, but I am never completely happy with the way the finished garment looks. Oh it looks nice, but I always have a sneaking suspicion that it could look nicer.

Not long ago I discovered a new blog (for me) by Kathleen Fasanella called Fashion Incubator. One of Kathleen’s posts was about a centered zipper construction where the facing was sewn to the zipper as part of the construction process. This made me start thinking that I could do something similar with my invisible zipper as well. I don’t recall that I have ever read about doing this before, or perhaps my brain was just not ready to absorb the information. After I sewed the zipper in the outer fabric I took my back lining pieces and sewed them over the zipper tape at the back zipper seam. I lined up the neck and center back edges exactly and then I sewed just OUTSIDE the original zipper seam-line. I did this because the invisible zipper seam is very close to the teeth on the outside of the zipper. But the inside of an invisible zipper is wider than what you see on the outside and I was afraid that the lining fabric would interfere with the operation of the zipper. I did not take pictures but perhaps I should have, although you can follow Kathleen’s technique and imagine what I did pretty well. After attaching the lining to the zipper I sewed the lining center back seam leaving a few inches open below the bottom of the zipper to be used later on in turning the garment.

Here is the finished garment showing the zipper, first the outside and then the inside of the zipper seam, very neatly finished:

The top of the zipper opening is not quite as perfectly smooth and clean as I would like. I finally accepted that it did not have to be perfect when I noticed that even Armani had a little bump at the top of his invisible zippers, but his are less noticeable than this one. Still it is not so bad that I am going to fret about it too much. The next one will be better. (forgive me all you perfectionists out there) I had a little trouble trimming out the extra bulk from this technique, but not much, and I think this will become my preferred method for the invisible zippers in lined garments. The opening at the bottom of the zipper was adequate for turning the garment and is far easier to hide with hand stitching.

After finishing the zipper I sewed the outer layer together at the side seams and the lining together at the side seams, leaving the shoulder seams open on both pieces**. Then attached the lining to the outer fabric at the neck and armhole openings. At that point it is easy to attach the lining to the outer fabric at the shoulder using the same technique I used for the lilac blocks shell. (oh how weird is that, linking to my own blog??). Because of the zipper I had to turn each shoulder separately, rather than doing it at one time, but that really is no additional hardship.

Next I sewed the lining to the outer layer at the bottom hems, turning the garment through the opening I left in the center back lining to do this. Once the seams were turned and pressed, the neckline, armhole and lower edges continuing into side seams were top-stitched. It is really hard to see the top-stitching as I did not use a different thread (intentionally) but it does make the garment look more finished. I hope you can see something in this photo:

I really like the way this top turned out. It is going to become a favorite, sleek and modern and comfortable too. I suppose there will be more of them in my future.

** oh yeah, don’t believe that really went as simply as it sounds. I really don’t need "real life" to distract me from what I am doing, I am more than capable of distracting myself. I actually did baste the shoulders together to check the fit of the garment on me, then I forgot about it (duh!!). I sewed the shoulders together late at night and got up early yesterday morning to finish. What with being freshly awakened, getting breakfast ready and getting my DH out the door, I forgot that I sewed the shoulders together even though they were looking right at me. I sewed the neckline and armholes together and then couldn’t figure out how to turn the garment. I got one weird-looking tangled mess which I kept turning and pulling and generally cursing and panicking. Imagine a human being at a sewing table acting something like a cat that has gotten something sticky on her tail which is attached to a long piece of string. She keeps turning around and getting herself more and more tangled and panicked…. well, you have the picture.

I finally realized that I had to unsew the armhole seams and unbaste the shoulders. That done, everything proceeded correctly. I am sometimes amazed at my own capacity for making stupid mistakes. Well, Sandra Betzina always says that sewing just offers more opportunities to do something wrong. I guess you know you are becoming a good seamstress when you can get yourself out of the messes you get yourself into. At least I hope that is what it means, otherwise there is no hope for me.

July 6, 2005
Birthday P2

Another birthday gift did materialize, not that I am totally selfish and vain or anything, but I am tickled pink (or blue?).

I also got some sewing time in. I finished the top I was making from the aqua Nancy Erickson cotton knit. It turned out very nicely and I wore it to dinner tonight.

I am too busy digesting a wonderful dinner and great wine to write now but I will fill you in on the details tomorrow.

July 5, 2005
Happy Birthday

It’s my birthday and I’ll sew if I want to.

July 5, 2005
Mistress of the Universe…

small though that universe may be (the boot’s universe, that is):

Given that I have been hauling stones, swinging picks and sledgehammers, and plan pretty extensive use of the tiller this summer, we felt it was time that I got a decent pair of workboots.

George said he would get me a pair of steel-toed workboots for my birthday. I think the boots are great, even though there was once a time when I would have said I am not the kind of woman who would spend her day in workboots.

Given that the other type of woman is still very present in my psyche (Manolos not Timberland) I certainly hope that he has something else wrapped up for my birthday (Tuesday).

Notice however that my Sandra Betzina jeans pattern painting pants which were too short with sneakers are just the right length with the new boots.

Here is a picture of my first stone flower bed, my most recent distraction from sewing:

before: and after:

This flower bed had fallen down considerably but it had been used in recent years, unlike the other one, which is still ahead of me, and is in far worse shape. Even so I had to dismantle and rebuild about 80% of the stone wall. This one was 9 feet long; the next one is 19. But I have some other flower beds, the ones I painted the 4x4s for to work on as well
.

Here’s a better perspective on the whole job.

Well I must go back to work, lovely as this lunch break has been. Tomorrow we are off to Boston for Leonard’s birthday party.

July 1, 2005
tee time

I started with the simplest sewing project, the purple cotton interlock tee.

I cut the fabric using this old pattern, which I have had for many many years. I used to use it quite frequently for both knit and woven fabric tees and shells. It is fairly over-sized and meant for shoulder pads but I just ignored those.

I cut View C, the v-neck, the only version meant to be pull-on although the patterns are all easily adaptable. I cut the size 8, much smaller than I now usually wear, but remember that this pattern is meant to be over-sized and I did not particularly want an over-sized tee. Looking at the finished project, I could have cut the body a size smaller, but should leave the shoulders as an 8.

It worked out very well and looks good on. The v-neck on the illustration is a bit lower than on the actual garment, at least as it hangs on me. The armhole openings don’t seem quite as low as illustrated on the pattern envelope either, although in the photo on Matilda, it looks as low as in the illustration. Matilda has no arms though and I do so it is possible that my armscyes take up more space than hers. I suspect this is because I am taller than average and sometimes have to lengthen patterns to increase the armscye depth. Some patterns that are meant to be very close fitting are too tight for me in that area. Although there appears to be ample room here in the sleeves, this does fit under most jackets.

I like the top and it took very little fiddling to get a nice fit. It is looser than the more fitted tees that are currently popular and I have had a lot of struggles with those kinds of tops. In the end, this kind of loose, drapey tee tends to look better on me, but I still feel it less finished when I want a top to wear with a more tailored outfit. It is boxy enough to skim the body but not as big and over-sized as a purchased men’s tee. I can also make it long enough.

Generally this is a pattern that I still think I will use a lot, for knits and maybe again for silk or other woven tops. It is certainly easy and good for casual and knock-around tees and is more flattering than most purchased tees as well.

I could easily curve the sides seams in for a little more waist shaping and I could add darts which would eliminate some of the pull lines which I get on all tees that don’t have darts. I always get boluxed up in this darts v. no darts issue with knit tops. The tops fit better with darts but somehow we are so used to not having darts in knits that I sometimes feel it is funny to put them in. I guess I should make up my mind someday.

June 29, 2005
Cutting

I spent part of yesterday afternoon and evening cutting out a few simple projects to work on during the next week or so. I probably could have cut more but as usual I spent a lot of time diddling about daydreaming, playing with patterns, caressing the fabric, and just generally enjoying the process. It is really nice to be able to indulge myself this way sometimes, instead of just rushing to get something finished.

Most of these projects are simple and somewhat experimental. I have no idea if a couple of them will even work out, but that is not really the point, I want to try them, and although in a way it sounds wasteful, I am not as interested in having a new garment as I am in the process itself and making it work, or if it doesn’t work, learning something from the experience. Of course, having new clothes is usually a wonderful by product of my efforts.

First I cut the yellow linen, which has a stripe of a thin sheer thread, almost like a lurex. I have had this fabric for quite a few years, from the days when I was mis-cast as an autumn, and I have been unable to part with the fabric because I love it so much even though I could never wear it next to my face.

It is a lightweight linen, probably more of a top weight but I am going to make wide drapey pants. I thought I would try making a pair of drawstring pants, perhaps only modified drawstring this time. I still like the idea of drawstring pants more than I have liked the actual results on me. As the fabric is quite light and sheer, it will be suitable for having extra width and the pants will be lined with matching bemberg.

I took a lot of time cutting out the pants, partly because I had to press the linen again as it had been folded on the shelf, and I allowed myself the luxury of pressing at leisure and enjoying working with the fabric and day-dreaming a little. I traced the pattern pieces onto the fabric, as is my wont, inspected everything before cutting and then finally cut and stacked the pieces. I find that I am much more accurate using this technique as opposed to pinning the pattern to the fabric and cutting from that. I like having the actual lines and markings on the fabric and it saves me much time later on when I am tired or distracted with other things.

Then I cut out the green knit. This is one of the cotton knits I ordered from Nancy Erickson in January. I never got around to cutting this one. The pattern is a designer vogue pattern, Vogue 2483, probably OOP, meant for non-stretch wovens, the only part of the pattern I am interested in is the top. As this knit is really not that stretchy it might work, but I tried to allow for that when cutting. This was the pattern I originally wanted to make from this top but had second thoughts earlier in the spring. The knits are nice and I wear the periwinkle pieces a great deal but I am not as happy with the fabric itself as I had hoped so I don’t mind experimenting with the green.

The fuchsia is a remnant of a cotton knit I had made a dress out of a long time ago. I had enough for a top and I saved it but never made it up. I spent a lot of time with this piece of fabric because I couldn’t decide what pattern to try. My first choice wouldn’t work because I did not have enough fabric, the second idea was a design adaptation I couldn’t work out in my head, the third choice just didn’t appeal to me somehow. In the end I decided to use this to remake an old t-shirt type pattern from the 80’s that I used a great deal, Vogue 7128. It is pretty over sized and was meant for shoulder pads at the time. I thought I would play with re-doing the shoulders and sleeves and trying to reuse the pattern. I always loved this top and surprisingly some of the tops I made with this pattern still fit pretty well.

Of course I will regale you with the details of my successes or failures as they occur.

June 26, 2005
On puttering about the house

I was up at 7:30 this morning and out in the driveway staining the 4x4s by 8. I overestimated how long it would take me this time, I finished all the beams, two coats each, by 9:45, which is pretty good time. This was a change because for the first three sides I had seriously underestimated the time requirements for the job. Perhaps that it was 8:00 AM and already in the mid 80’s and humid and I just wanted to get done. Perhaps I was just too tired (we went to bed at 2:30) to lapse into my usually contemplative state, enjoying the process of what I was doing, and so I just pushed to get it done as quickly as possible.

Nonetheless, it is hot and I am happy to spend the rest of the day indoors; well, except perhaps for a swim or two.

There are times when I wonder why I get myself into these jobs, why I bother, why not let the yard just exist as it is (it is perfectly nice) or hire a landscaper and have a perfectly nice yard much like everyone else’s. When I was growing up, everyone pretty much did most stuff around the house themselves, partly because no one could afford to have it done and partly because that was just part of the culture. Now, most of my friends make money and are good at many things, but have no idea of how to plant or landscape or fix anything inside the house. Many of the men I know are proud of not knowing how to swing a hammer or use a saw; rewire a light or tile anything. Most of their wives are the same, I have often ranted at how proud some of my friends are that they "can’t sew on a button".

And yet, for all that there is some part of me that would love to be able to pay wonderful competent contractors to do just what I wanted around the house and property, there is another part of me that would not be at all comfortable with that way of life. I like being able to putter about, to fix things, to get my hands dirty. To me, being involved physically in the place I live gives me a power over it and makes my home a part of myself, not just some place I occupy. This is part of why I am really not eager to move. My home is, as I have often said, my refuge from the world, and it is a place that I have played a significant role in shaping.

I was thinking the other day, after reading an article in the New York Magazine, in the end a really insignificant article, about the image of the high-achieving, driven, ivy-league graduate and how I have never fit that role completely. Oh, I am very grateful that I went to Vassar, admittedly not ivy league, but close enough, and my college years very much shaped who I am today. But many of my classmates were driven to achieve something — some form of success in the outside world, not necessarily money, but that was a part of it. Some of them have now, in their 40’s cut back or left careers and started families, which is a change from the young women who did not want to limit themselves to being "moms" while they were still in college.

But I was never particularly driven in that way. Oh I can be driven. In whatever job or career I have pursued, I hate not knowing something, I am driven to know everything possible, to not appear stupid, to master everything that is available. Because of that I can be a very driven and hard worker. But once I have hit a wall I am bored and ready to move on to something else. I have never been driven toward a career. Marriage and home have always been higher in my goals, but not in a "conservative religious family-values" kind of way that is popularized now in parts of American Culture. There has always been some part of me that thought the labor of life, working to keep a family going, working on a farm, growing food or flowers, fixing your own house, creating something, almost anything really, was somehow more rewarding than trading stocks for example. Not that I want to be a farmer and have to work that hard every day. I just think that making one little piece of life more enjoyable, and putting your stamp on it is enough. Not everyone can change the world and not everyone should.

I suppose I am a dilettante. Oh well.

June 26, 2005