Pattern alteration info — Purple Rain

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I forgot something when I posted about my purple rain jacket yesterday. 

As a reminder, the jacket was made from this Vogue Pattern:
Butterfly5

The pieces went together very easily and I really had no problems putting the top together.  The fit issues I have complained about are more my own fit issues than problems with the pattern.

However I did need to alter the sleeve a little bit.  I first cut a draft sleeve and basted it in and found that I had drag lines on the sleeve.  This is not that unusual of a problem (hence the draft).  To solve it I simply added 1/2 inch in height to the sleeve cap, which was originally pretty flat.  This made it slightly curved but did not add so much length as to make easing the sleeve difficult. The coated silk was somewhat difficult to ease and if it went in without difficulty, I would imagine that most other fabrics would as well.

Here is a picture of the original pattern piece, with my altered pattern underneath it.  I cut my pattern out of "soil separator paper" and it is very sheer and hard to see so I traced the line on a piece of paper just so you can see the edge a little better.

Butterfly6

I make the sleeve cap 1/2" higher at the center dot and tapered to nothing at the seamlines.