New Vogue Patterns part 2

To continue the previous chain of thought…..

There are still more patterns.  I am pattern crazy this month.  What can I say.  I think it is partly that there are some nice designer patterns and some lovely suits, as there are in general this year.  It has been a good year style wise with more suits and more tailored sportswear which looks a little more polished and feminine.  This is the part of the 80s style I miss, not the oversized shoulder pads, the giant shapeless sweaters and many other looks, but what I like about this season is the way feminine tailoring has worked its way back into clothes, and I love that masculine/feminine juxtaposition that good sportswear and suits can do so well.  There are nice dresses too, but for the most part it is not the dresses that are thrilling me with this batch of patterns (except for that DKNY dress I posted about the other day).

But on to more patterns:

This is another one of those patterns that I
almost passed by, and I should know better.  It doesn’t look that special at a glance, and they do
show the back view on the pattern envelope, but I don’t think it is all that flattering on the model.  But still, it definitely grew on
me.  I know that it is easy to say if it looks bad on the model how will it look on a normal person?  But that is misleading because I am convinced this pattern has potential.  I  think the back with its draped and
laced pieces could be very flattering on some people, especially those with
shapely rear view.  And if you have a bit of waist definition and a shapely or trim bum, it can also hide a bit of tummy action in the front.  The more I think about this I think it might be better looking on "normal" people than on the model, who might not ha
ve what it takes to show this pattern off.  I am suitably
intrigued.  But then, I am always intrigued by different ideas and new ways to play with seaming.  I am also intrigued because it looks like such a boring conservative suit until you turn around.  Now THAT can really turn heads.

This is another classic suit.  These Anne Klein patterns are usually such versatile classic shapes.  It is a pretty timeless jacket that comes in and out fo style, and is pretty much always around because it looks good on a lot of people.  It can also be easily varied by fabric and details.  But it is the skirt that caught my eye here.  Look a the
details on the skirt, the pleats in front and in back.  Notice how the pleats
go from the outside facing the center of the skirt, not from the center of the
skirt facing out.  Look at the back.  Notice that once again the
pleats are not lying quite the way one might assume.  I am not saying that
you can’t duplicate this look with any other pattern, in fact it would not be difficult, but it is definitely an
interesting idea and a really nice skirt with its combination of front and back
pleats.  I love patterns that do something a little differently and make me look at things in a different way.  It is always good to get shaken out of my old rut a little bit.

This is another pattern that I had  a strong reaction to the instant I saw the pattern even though it is not a pattern that I would automatically assume might look good on me.  In fact my first reaction would be that it would not, but I have been wrong before.  Besides there I am possessed of  a strong stubborn streak which often takes the opinion that anything can look good if I just get the proportions, and fabric right and tweak the design just a little to fit me, not the model.   I know that it doesn’t always work out that way, but certainly there is a lot of entertainment value in giving it a try.  The cost of pattern and muslin  are probably worth the entertainment I will get (and possibly frustration) from trying to make it work.  Sometimes the exercises prove to yield wonderful results, sometimes not, but I can’t say that I haven’t learned something, and I can’t say that it has been a waste of my time, probably less a waste of time that collapsing in front of the tele and watching whatever happens to come on.

Besides, I have a weakness for designer patterns just as design inspiration and this pattern certainly inspires me.

I don’t like the pattern envelope on this pattern.  They make it look like a jumpsuit. Heaven forbid. 

But I do like the pattern pieces, a short, waist-length bomber jacket and nice pleated pants with a waistband.  I like pants with a waistband.  Always have, probably always will, when you have a long torso, that waistband provides a welcome break across the long expanse of body.  I can see these pants in a soft wool, or a lovely silk.  Yes they could look too baggy and even sloppy but they could look so nice and even a little soigne if done correctly.  This look isn’t for everyone, but it is all over the fashion magazines and runways (in several variations) and both the pieces are good for me.  One of my favorite suits had a short jacket cut much like this one and soft pleated pants.  Too bad it is a size 4 and not likely to find its way back onto my person.

Now this is another great Oscar de la Renta Suit.  So flattering and nice and the pants have a high waist but are not so full as the ones above.   Too bad the picture on the pattern envelope doesn’t  seem to look quite like the original Oscar de la Renta in last season’s runway photos:

Here the jacket seems more closely fitted and the pants seem to ride a little lower on the hip.  No matter, it can be adjusted either way.  It could be a difference in models as well I guess. 

I like the pleat at the back of the jacket.  The way the jacket stands away in the back reminds me of a Perry Ellis suit back from the 80s.  Of course that jacket was gathered and the pleats in this are much easier to wear.  The shaping on this jacket is completely different. Great pattern, however you make it.

I

like this one too.  The jacket looks like some things I have seen in the stores recently, the skirt is flirty and nice, and the pieces all work well together and I can imagine several people I know who would love dresses and outfits made from this pattern and I can imagine places to wear it.  But I am undecided. It is nice.  It will look nice.  But it doesn’t make my heart go pitty pat.

I do however love this suit.  I don’t know who designs these "Divine Details" patterns but they do seem to have so vintage or retro touches without being retro patterns.  The shape of this pattern is both modern and retro.  Certainly the bodice shaping on the jacket is not new.  Yves Saint Laurent played with this theme. I had suits from Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana with very similar variation on this cut, although the fuller sleeves are more Yves Saint Laurent than Thierry Mugler. Mugler and Montana often had that strong woman/bondage, love/hate kind of thing going on in the clothes, and this doesn’t seem to have quite those conotations.  The peplum can be very flattering on a lot of people as long as you ar careful not to make it too "Designing Women" if you know what I mean.

I’m throwing this pattern into the mix because I like the more rounded opening and the addition of the organza ruffle inside the neckline.  This is a nice touch, and I just want to save the idea.  I think some variation on this idea can be created from any fitted jacket pattern that looks good on the individual sewist.  Again this is one of those vintage-inspired details that the "Devine Details" line seems to specialize in.  The little lace pleat at the back of the jacket is not for me, that is a little too much detail.  But I still like the idea of the neckline for my ispiration file.

My last pattern is another dress:
I just love this dress, even without the insert lace panel above the hem.  That is the kind of detail I would not particularly have thought of unless I had seen it somewhere, and truthfully it was not the first thing I noticed about the dress.  I like the pleating at the waist.  I like the neckline and the cap sleeves.  This is the kind of cool summer dress I can just see myself living in.  It is probably a little old-fashioned, and not at all cutting edge, but  in my mind’s eye I can already see myself swishing around in it on a nice summer’s day.