Author: 459856pwpadmin

  • need a new machine doctor

    I finally took my Elna in to the shop today, although I am having qualms now that I have done so, and am wondering about the future.

    When I first got the Elna, (and later my Baby Lock)long long ago, there was no local Elna dealer so I took it in to Crown Machine Service in NYC.  Usually, if it just needed cleaning or a minor adjustment I could drop it in the morning and they would have it back to me in the afternoon, providing me with an opportunity to shop or pursue other interests in NYC. 

    Then we got  Amazing Threads, which sold yarn and  Elna Sewing Machines and they took very good care of my baby.  No more lugging the sewing machine on the train (I’m not complaining) and although I didn’t get it back the same day, it was still pretty convenient.  But Amazing Threads was sold.  I had been informed that the same people were doing the machine service out of a fabric store on the far side of Kingston, so I took the machine there this morning.  Ends up they are just servicing the Elnas as a courtesy but don’t really handle the machines.  Probably this is fine, it just needs a little cleaning and adjustment on the tension.  But I am feeling cautious — I love this machine after all, even though I use the newer one more.  Well, let’s see what happens and when I get it back, but in one mad moment of panic I almost ran back and snatched my machine.

    Perhaps I will be hauling it down to NYC again, after all it is an easy subway ride from Crown Machine down to the garment district.

  • Death of a Beekeeper

    Deathofbeekeeper
    Whereas the last book was something I read compulsively, but did not always ENJOY reading, The Death of a Beekeeper was completely the opposite.  It seems surprising that this novel could be so entrancing, so personal, so involving, but something must have appealed to me because I did, after all, buy it.  And this one definitely goes on the permanent shelf.

    Beautiful, spare, utterly captivating.  I absolutely loved reading this book and the only reason it took me two days was because I had to keep stopping to consider what I was reading, to let my mind wander through this new world that was being created by words, and occasionally to doze off into the world of dreams (decongestants).  Gustafson’s prose and power of description are wonderful.   The story is not really a story in the traditional sense, it purports to be the miscellaneous journals found in the house of a man who has died of cancer, the journals of a man dying of cancer.  But the writing draws one in to this world and makes the reader feel the world, as if these could be his or her journals (if most of us could write this well) and we feel these thoughts, this world, and the slipping away of this world very deeply. Rather than reading a story about someone else in someplace else in order to escape one’s self for a bit, the reader becomes the narrator, at least in part, and this becomes as much the reader’s story and the reader’s loss as that of some imagined character. One reads and begins to feel the events and thoughts as if one was a part of them, as if one’s own memories are being created.

    A tremendous accomplishment.

  • On pattern storage and Burda WOF

    I have not been working on the jacket, although I have thought about working on the jacket and for now at least the problem is not lack of time, but lack of motivation and energy.  Blame my sinuses, all four sinus regions are fairly blocked up, although today I was informed that the blockage is dissipating, and I actually do feel a little better, as long as I don’t move quickly, listen to loud noises, or change the elevation of my head (bend over).  I am even contemplating riding the exercise bike at home because I think I can do that without causing my head to move too much (as long as I don’t ride so vigorously that I bounce up and down on the bike).  Of course I don’t yet know if I will be able to inhale enough oxygen to sustain any kind of effort on the bike. The prolonged sluggishness, not just the sinus pressure, is affecting my state of mind.

    I used to just get an annual head-cold.  Now I get an annual sinusitis attack.  I think I would rather have the head-cold.

    And so, since sewing requires thought (which seems to hurt my head) and moving from sewing table to ironing board and back, I have been less than inclined to sew.  Besides the decongestants make me drowsy, not the best time to be operating machinery with sharp pointed objects running at high speed.

    I am not worried.  November already looks better than October, which has been blacked out in the calendar and stricken from memory .

    In order to entertain myself I have been filing my Burda WOF magazines, which have been piling up in an unruly fashion since I subscribed a year and a half ago.  I contemplated various ways of saving them, but in the end went back to the technique I used with the old Burda International magazines, and in fact most of my sewing patterns.

    Burdapatterns_002

    The pattern paper and the instruction pages go in a manila file pocket, as do all my other patterns.  I don’t save the actual magazine, but I cut favorite photos out of the magazine and paste them on the outside of the folder for inspiration.  That way, if I am just flipping through the files for inspiration, I see my favorite garments in photos, and the line drawings are readily available right inside each folder. 

    I also scan the line drawings into the computer and print them out on a half-sheet sized page that fits into my old filofax which  I now use as a pattern notebook.  You can see the notebook sheets on the left in the photo.  All patterns are filed in the pattern catalog drawers by company and number, in my notebook the patterns are filed by type (blouses, jackets, etc) or all the pattern magazines are grouped together with copies of the line drawings.  The new Burda WOF is much easier than the old Burda, which did not have an index page with the line drawings, and I had to trace each individual drawing onto onionskin paper to add to my notebook. 

    Sometimes I do think this is a lot of work, but I enjoy just sitting down with the notebook and looking at my pattern catalog, and I like keeping the pattern envelope or directions with the pattern as well.  I have friends who put the pattern envelopes in three-ring binders and file the patterns separately but I like my small half-size notebooks better.  The space in my notebook is overflowing and I have to get a new one, but I haven’t found one I like lately.  The half-size notebooks used to be widely available in France with four rings, and I love those, but I haven’t been back lately and I haven’t found a source here in the States.  I suppose I can’t justifiy a trip to Europe just to buy binders.

    I have often over the years thought it would be nice to convert all the pattern information to a database, which would include the drawings or photographs of the pattern and the line drawings as well as yardage information (all this information is in my notebook), as I don’t always carry the notebook around.  It is just too cumbersome.  A database could be downloaded to my Palm for quick browsing if I found myself at a fabric source.  But in the end, I usually know roughly how much I need for a jacket or pants or a dress and just buy that "average" value.  Certain patterns take odd amounts though,  I may do it someday, as much for the fun of doing it as anything else.  All these patterns have been scanned into the computer after all so it is just a question of putting it all together.

    But in the end, I like looking through my pattern book far more than I like looking through a database on the computer, or on my palm, where it is even harder to see the details of a picture.  So perhaps this plan is best left in the realm of dreams a little longer.

  • Further thoughts ….

    It is time once again to fit the newly read books onto the bookshelves, always a challenge here as we by no means live in a book-free zone.

    In doing so I have been faced with a bit of a  conundrum.  The books I think I want to save are stacked neatly, ready to be interfiled with their future shelf-mates and I find I must pause.  What do I do with the book I just read, The Tortilla Curtain.  As you recall, I said it was worthwhile reading, and the writing was good.  In fact it was a rather namby-pamby review because I didn’t really say what I thought about the story itself, except that it made me think about myself and society in a different way.  And herein lies the problem.

    The book was good.  I do not regret reading it, in fact I am probably even glad I did.  Initially I put it on the "to be saved" list, but now I have doubts.  Is this the kind of book I really want on my shelf?  I don’t save books because they are uplifting.  I even have been known to save books I don’t agree with but which make me think and look at the world in different ways.  This book might meet that criteria, as it has made me look at myself and my society and the ways our lives and our values are often in conflict.  But it is also a novel, and it is a novel in which one character, Delaney, runs down another character, Candido, gives him $20.00 in payment for the severe injuries he has incurred, and then later feels he (Delaney) has been "taken" by the Mexican, whom he later tries to kill.  In many ways I find Delaney to be despicable, even though I can understand how his view of life has turned down the path to destruction.  Is this a book I will ever read again?  Is this a book I want my grandchildren to read?

    Well, I think I have answered my question.

  • The Tortilla Curtain

    Tortilla_curtain_1I finished The Tortilla Curtain.  It took me longer than most "bicycle books" do but then it is a novel that holds up well on its own, not just as a distraction while riding an exercise bike.  I hadn’t expected to like this book  as much as I did.  The only other Boyle novel I had read, World’s End, had not been a favorite despite much acclaim at the time.

    Boyle is an excellent, skilled writer and the book is quite enjoyable to read.   Yes, it is a book about California, about the extremes of not just California but the American Lifestyle.  Yes, in many ways the characters are stereotypes of the poor immigrant and the rich, liberal, shallow, white American.  Yes both families experience a series of disasters that are unlikely to occur in such short order in "real life".  But Boyle does not get trapped in the assumptions and the stereotypes. Each of the primary characters, Delaney and Candido are given equal weight.  Neither one is treated as a stereotype and Boyle makes no effort to say "this is the typical member of his tribe".  I would get completely wrapped up in the lives of the characters even though I might find them each quite unlikeable at times.

    As I said, these characters are not stereotypes.  They are individuals, but there must be many people like them in many degrees and variations.  Each character rings true, and I can see the basic traits that I see in other people, and myself in each of them.  Each of them reacts in ways that seem completely in keeping with what we have learned of their characters and their lives.  While the book highlights the dichotomy of rich and poor in this nation, quite brutally at times, Boyle does not belittle either side. I don’t think the point of the book is to damn or praise anything in American Culture.  It is about miscommunication and what happens when people come up against a wall, what assumptions they make and how they react and how our circumstances and background affect the judgments we make about other people. 

    Yes the book is unrealistic in many ways, but a good novel often has to be unrealistic.  Tragedy, Comedy, The Unexpected.  These are what highlight the experiences of life and a good novel must draw our attentions to things that we might miss in the normal boring day-to-day flow of life (Anne Tyler excepted perhaps).  Delaney may be shallow and self-righteous.  Candido may be ignorant and even "hopeless" at times.  But their reactions ring true on many levels.  But the book is about how people react under extreme circumstances  and about how different our expectations and judgments are, about how difficult it really is for people to understand and judge others whose upbringing, language, and circumstances are quite different. "Walking a mile in another person’s shoes" does not come naturally to any of us.

    It is a good book.  The story is gripping.  The characters are very clearly drawn and the reader is drawn into their thoughts.   The book is sympathetic even as it is damning.  In short it is about our humanity and how we perceive the world around us, strengths and shortcomings and all.  The novel doesn’t really seem to judge, but the reader might find herself thinking much.  In keeping with the theme of the novel, different readers may bring in different perceptions as well, adding more or less weight.  I might damn Delaney more than Candido, because I can relate more to Delaney’s background than to Candido’s.  Even though I might despise some of his decisions, I feel angry at him, I feel that he, with his privileges and better education, should have known better.  But that is the point.  We are all prisoners of our backgrounds and in extreme circumstances it is our backgrounds that determine our biases and how we react, now matter how much we might try to overcome these assumptions at other times in our lives.

    Individually we are doomed to misunderstanding.  But there is still humanity and there is still a shred of hope.

  • Interfacing the Jacket

    I carved out a little time to work on my jacket today, very little time, but now I should be set to actually begin to sew.

    Today was interfacing day.

    Simplicity 4047 is not a highly structured jacket.  The primary areas to be interfaced are the front facings, back neck facings and the sleeve facings.  I did not interface the sleeve facings today because I am not sure how I am handling the sleeves.

    First, however a decision had to be made as to what interfacing to use.    My old standby interfacings for collars cuffs and facings have been Armo Weft and Fusi Knit but I have occasionally used other things as well.  As interfacing varies on each fabric, and I have several interfacings in house at the moment, a little test run seemed feasible.

    Fusi Knit             Made the fabric seem thick and oddly stiff.

    Suitmaker 660   Did not seem to "thicken" the feel of the fabric but it was almost too crisp for the style

    Armani Interfacing from Sandra Betzina — made the fabric seem too thick and bulky. 

    Armo Weft  was very nice, support but the hand changed very little, less on the bias than on the straight of the front, but all in all a nice feel to the finished result.   Pam’s Pro Weft seems to be the same interfacing or so similar that I haven’t really been able to tell the difference on any test so far.  However, since I have two bolts of Armo Weft (purchased when I mostly sewed jackets) I might as well stick to that for now.

    Simplicity4047interfacing

    I had just enough Armo Weft washed to interface this jacket.  Once the interfacing was applied and left to cool, I washed several more yards of Armo Weft and hung it up to dry as I have a few more jackets and coats in the plans.

    I don’t think I will get any further with this tonight.  It is time to get to work on dinner and Monday was so hectic I did not get to the ironing.  Tonight’s plan calls for televison and ironing.  If I finish before I fall over in exhaustion I may come up and start sewing, but more likely I will just knit.

  • Food Day

    Sunday is Pantry Day.  Sunday is food day.  If Sunday works, the whole week works….

    well that is not exactly true ’cause sometimes days get out of hand and the whole plan or schedule goes down the drain.  Sometimes entire weeks go down the drain as well. 

    But if all goes well, Sunday is food planning day, and the other days kind of fall into place.  This is nice when Monday is hectic and I have no idea what I am going to do for dinner, or lunch either for that matter, when I run in the house to greet hungry husband, and contractor who wants to discuss pool plans, and my own tummy is growling as well.  Then, what happens if the afternoon falls apart?  Look at the plan.  Oh, soak the dried Chinese Mushrooms.  Make emergency trip to Sears.  Come home to soft mushrooms! Now I can make dinner. 

    Of course if there is food in the pantry I can find something to cook and turn out a perfectly nice meal, but I actually enjoy the planning stage, and I enjoy grocery shopping, if I have done the planning that is, but I also enjoy it when I am just at the farmer’s market or store looking for what is fresh and inspiring and thinking of the meals I might prepare.

    Octoberfarmersmkt1

    Sunday is Farmer’s Market day, at least it is for the next few weeks, until Thanksgiving, after which I will be reduced to regular grocery store shopping until May. But for now, the glory of Sunday remains. 

    First we go to the Farmer’s Market.  I usually do a brief walk-through, just to see who has what, and focusing on my favorite vendors of course.  Then we buy:  mostly vegetables, sometimes meat and cheese as well.

    When we get home I spread everything out on the kitchen island, where I can see it all.  I also pull any remaining produce from the previous week out of the fridge.  If the produce is still good it goes on the island, if it is looking a little limp but still edible it goes in the stock pot.  There is not usually much left over, but sometimes the week gets out of hand and I was to stressed to cook.  Those weeks tend to fall into take-out or quick pantry meals that take little preparation time and no thought.

    This is when the fun part begins.  I start to plan.  Of course, I have had a plan all along.  I usually think of what I might make as I purchase things at the market.  But sometimes when I get it all home new ideas come to mind.    As I look, new combinations form: 

    Octoberfarmersmkt2

    I might pull out stacks of cookbooks and think about new recipes to try.  I will probably also search my own recipe database for specific ingredients to remind myself of what possibilities are available, or if I have a specific dish in mind, what other ingredients will be required.

    This entire process, planning the week’s menus usually takes me an afternoon, and often a good part of a day.  I know that most would consider this excessive, and although I have always planned the menus and grocery shopping, I didn’t really spend this much time with it until this past summer, when I started trying to plan well-balanced high fiber diets.  But now I am in the habit.  I enjoy the process, I enjoy playing with ideas.  I enjoy making lists.

    After I have decided what to do with a particular vegetable, it moves over to the countertop, or it gets washed, wrapped or prepped in whatever way necessary for storage.    Eventually everything has moved off the island, and I have a week’s worth of menus, and all the food has been put away.

    During the process, I probably also planned breakfasts and lunches — again that is something I just recently added to the process.  Each  day’s menu has been planned to include a broad range of nutrients.  The recipe database includes nutritional information so that all comes up automatically as I plan the menus.  If a particular ingredient is not in the database, I can usually get it from the USDA website.  Usually, if I watch fiber, and the basic major vitamins, the other things fall into place.  Since I aim for 18-22 grams of fiber per 1000 calories, the menu doesn’t tend to be that high in fat, (especially since I can’t just grab a bowl of FiberOne or All Bran) simply because the fiber/calorie ratio would be too low.  At the same time, I like food and have no interest in a diet that tastes too "brown rice" if you understand what I mean, so although our diet is healthy, it is not ascetic by any means.   I do use cream and butter and fatty cuts of meat, but in reasonable moderation.  There is always room for a lovely pastry or bit of chocolate.  But in order to meet the fiber guidelines we eat a lot of vegetables and vegetables are high in nutrients.  I have found me get more than enough of almost everything in our diet now, and I if something is lacking I can make minor variations to achieve balance. 

    We used to down numerous vitamins.  Now I find the only place we are short is in the B vitamins, so we take a supplement.  And probably every other day I need an extra calcium pill, but mostly I meet those requirements as well.  We take fewer pills and we feel better; who can complain about that?

    Octoberfarmersmkt3

    After the dinners are planned, the lunches and breakfasts get added, the nutrition is checked, the menus are rearranged, and everything is checked to make sure I used all the ingredients purchased at the farmer’s market.  A schedule is planned if there are things that need to be done in advance for particular meals.  A grocery list is made for all those items not found at the farmer’s market.  The database is cross referenced to my normal pantry items so the great majority of the list is generated automatically from the menu, especially if all the recipes are in the database.  There is always
    some hand-checking necessary. Since everything is purchased with a plan, very little is wasted.  Everything is set, but not set in stone.

    Of course, I might change a menu during the course of the week.  Sometimes I am inspired by a new recipe or a change in the weather or an unexpected guest.  Sometimes I am just too stressed or I am feeling particularly culinarily creative.  It all comes with the territory when you are obsessed with food.  But then, if I weren’t obsessed, I probably wouldn’t find this refreshing.

    And Sunday is refreshing. 

    When I was in high school girls were required to take at least one year of Home Economics, where we were supposedly taught to plan menus.  I don’t think most of my friends still do, it is one of those forgotten arts.  We certainly didn’t consider nutrition beyond the basic food groups.

    I don’t think I would have believed that I would come back to menu planning, but I have, and I look forward to it every week.

  • Personal Day

    Some things are just meant to be.

    For some time I had planned that today would be a personal day, a day to sew or knit or do whatever caught my fancy.  I was truly looking forward to it as life has been fairly hectic lately, the weekends have been quite full, and sewing or knitting time were hard to come by.  I was going to have the house to myself for a full day; no workmen, no family, no schedule.  A little piece of Heaven.

    But plans change.  G had a family event in Flushing:  a memorial service for an old family friend, a friend of his mother’s, involving people I had never met, and indeed whom G thought he barely remembered.  Still he thought he should go, although he thought I should not.  Plans were made, everything was prepared. 

    But nothing is that simple.  There was much agitation and the whole thing was getting blown way out of proportion.  One obvious solution to several tense discussions seemed to be that I should go, and drive and that way I could take some people home at night, and no one would fret (except of course for the driver).  So I volunteered.  Bye Bye sewing day.

    But for once, Mother Nature was on my side.  Heavy rain and high winds were forecast for today.  And indeed we did have heavy rain, and now the winds have come.  G took the train and I got to stay home. 

    And so I had a personal day after all, although so far I haven’t actually sewed much, it has still been a time of creativity and renewal.  I went to the gym and took a long tough workout.  I came home and the power was fading in and out during one particularly vicious thunderstorm so I curled up with some knitting  and happily whiled away a few hours. 

    And I cleaned up the sewing room, put away the remnants of the nursery set, sorted out my NYS Sheep & Wool purchases, and generally got my space ready for the next project.  And I looked at my next and future projects.

    I got out the Simplicity Jacket I cut out in San Francisco (finally!):

    Simplicity4047_1

    I think I made a mistake when I cut this out.  I recall that the sleeves on the muslin were a little short, but I thought to myself that I could fix that as there was another sleeve piece.  I was thinking that piece was an extension, when in actually it is a cuff lining so that the sleeves can be turned up.  I think I can work around this by just turning that piece into a sleeve extension, in which case it will become a design detail rather than a  mistake, but I will see what happens.

    Therefore I have decided not to cut the lining yet, but to begin constructing the jacket and see what I have to do about the sleeves.  I do have extra fabric, but I am not convinced I have enough to recut the sleeves.

    Steel_magnolias

    I also started thinking about a sewing plan.  I know I wrote about needing a few garments in my closet and finding things that went together.  Well, the situation is not as dire as I originally feared.  I have three nice suits, all black, and a beautiful black dress that can be dressed up or down so I am set for dinners out, concerts, and just about any more social event that I would need to go to.  I also have a cocktail dress that fits nicely.

    For everyday I have several pairs of chinos in black, gray, and chocolate brown, and corduroy’s as well in the same colors. so I am set.  Casual jackets are in short supply, but this will get me through my wardrobe needs.  In short, I am not pressed for something to wear, but I don’t want to be confined to those items, and I do need to plan what I make, producing garments that go with things in my wardrobe or planning outfits or wardrobes around what I sew..

    The selection of fabrics shown above is a grouping of black and gray fabrics, with some colors, that I pulled out last spring and never got to.  It was for a little collection I called "Steel Magnolias" based on steel grays and blacks, and the idea that I wanted to combine some high tech fabrics and styles with some soft floaty skirts and more romantic looks as well, using an industrial black and gray base.  I guess I was thinking something along the lines of "small town Southern girl goes high tech" but I never developed it.   

    Admittedly part of the inspiration came from a sweater I had just knitted out of a stainless steel and cotton yarn called Tesla .  Now I wore that sweater last week at the Sheep & Wool Festival and although it was loose when I knitted it; now it is much too loose and kept falling off my shoulders.  I will have to do something with ti before next spring rolls around.  I am not sure if that sweater will fit into this collection anymore and I probably need to brace myself for the idea that future wear will require undoing and re-knitting it.

    But I have been obsessed with black lately, even before I knew that the  only clothes that still fit were black (strange enough considering that black was not the largest part of my wardrobe) and so it seems worthwhile to stick with the black theme for a while. 

    I haven’t planned actual garments, except for a couple of pieces, and I don’t know if I will actually work out a plan on paper or just kind of "sew as I go" but I will keep you informed.

    But that is not all I will be sewing.  I know you remember that I started a Marfy blouse muslin back in August which I still want to finish.  I have some nice lavender fabric set aside for that.  And there are several other projects in the works as well as three rather bulky coatings I want to get out of the stash and onto my back this season.  So there is no shortage of options.

    I am also adding this selection of fabrics into the mix:

    Wine
       
    They are all seasonally appropriate.  They will also blend into my black and gray foundation pieces nicely

    But now, I have to move on from thinking about sewing to actually working on something.

  • Concrete

    The concrete has been poured and it finally looks like something is happening in the back yard.

    I originally posted what pictures I was allowed to get out and take elsewhere, but here is the pour:

    Concrete2_2

    Concrete1_1

    And the final result, looks wonderful.

    Concrete1_2

    Concrete2_3

    Concrete3

    Concrete4

    Concrete5

    Concrete6

    Actually, the pool looks better than it ever has.  It looks finished now, even though the fiberglass has not yet been applied.  The old pool looked crumbly and rough, constantly uneven and cracked.  This is a great improvement.

    Now I wish I had taken "before" photos, although it never really occurred to me at the time.  Basically, I just don’t think about taking pictures, although the web is helping to change my attitudes.  Too late now. 

    Anyone who saw the pool before would be stunned at how nicely this is turning out, as was our old friend who visited Wednesday night.

  • Crib set Finished

    I finished the dust ruffle for the crib today, which means the nursery set is finally completed and ready to wend its way to Tennessee.

    Bumper6

    The dust ruffle is on top of the stack, a closer look below:

    Bumper5

    This actually took me 2 hours or better, although this might have been because I worked on it in bits and pieces.  Sunday I spent a half an hour turning up and stitching hems.  Monday I spent another half hour finishing the same.  Today I gathered the skrit and attached it to the box spring cover.  That last step took me an hour.  But of course the first time I pinned it incorrectly, probably because I was totally distracted and had to keep peering out the window watching the concrete being poured around the pool and deck foundations.

    I hadn’t planned on sewing today.  The concrete crew would not allow me in the kitchen, which is right under the area where the giant spider-like arm carrying the concrete was perched over the house.  I suppse it was a safety issue in case things went wrong.  Still, old friend Wool E. Bear came right after the concrete pour and I managed to pull dinner together, a little later than originally planned while we all chattted and noshed and drank well.  What a lovely evening, filled with good friends, laughter, and good food.