I picked up the Elna at Style Fabrics and also bought the purple velvet. I can’t capture the color exactly on the camera:
I had hoped to make the de la Renta dress. Unfortunately there is not enough to make any kind of dress, only enough for a skirt. I bought it anyway as it has been on my mind so heavily. I think it needs to sit in the stash a little bit and acquaint itself with a few other pieces, make a few friends, perhaps determine what it wants to be.
I had hoped last night to finish serging the edges of the black and white jacket but I got distracted by an e-mail which led to some research and discussion of the Fiat plant which opened in Poughkeepsie in 1910. That discussion pretty much used up my sewing time, and G was ready for bed, but I begged a little extra time to do my serging.
I shouldn’t have bothered. The serger jammed up again after a few inches. This seems to have been the norm with this project so I shut everything down and decided that the serger and I needed to spend some quality time together this afternoon.
I had a sneaking suspicion I knew the nature of the problems, and after I managed to fix it the first time, I spent some extra time playing with the machine. Yes my suspicions were correct. It was a thread problem.
I know people whose sergers don’t care what thread goes into them, but me, I’m familiar with thread problems. My first serger was a lovely machine, I could thread it mid-seam and we constructed a lot of garments together. But it was very particular about thread. It only liked Mettler. Anything else and it jammed. So I always bought Mettler thread, and I gave away everything else. Then I discovered Mettler’s finer serger thread, Metrolene, and I loved it. It gave the finest finished edges, even on sheer fabrics. But Mettler stopped making Metrolene, I bought a big supply at that time, and most of it is gone, except for six colors.
I guess I hadn’t used any of the Metrolene on the new serger, which I have now had a year or a little better. But I used it on this job. It was the only kind of white serger thread I had in stock; I guess I haven’t sewn anythng white and I am fairly picky about matching my serger thread to my project.
Anyway, the thread kept popping out of its guides as I was serging, and the Metrolene is so fine I have trouble seeing it, especially the white threads. As soon as I ran regular serger thread through the machine everything worked perfectly; if I switched out one thread, it started acting up and I couldn’t get it readjusted to work. This serger doesn’t seem to care about the quality or brand of the thread itself, I even tested it with Maxi-Loc which just stopped my older serger cold, It handles fuzzy nylon and various embroidery and specialty threads, but it doesn’t seem to like the really fine thread, at least not the Metrolene. But then, perhaps it is just me.
So the remainder of my Metrolene collection is going bye-bye:
Mettler Metrolene thread 2000 m spools
color 792 navy — 4 spools
color 003 black — 5 spools
color 739 red — 4 spools
color 632 gray — 4 spools
color 692 l ight beige — 4 spools
color 619 brown bronze — 4 spools
If anybody reading this wants any of the thread, leave a comment; it just needs a good home. If not I will put it up on e-bay after Thanksgiving.
I found a new wardrobe combination that I think looks really good. The oversized cardigan is perhaps a little schlumpy, but then I feel good wearing it. Besides I have always loved running around town in a big old oversized sweater. At least I can almost pull it off again.
Or perhaps it is just that, having reclaimed my space, I feel filled with light and pulled together despite all evidence to the contrary.
I received a package today from my friend "Book Guy". I haven’t heard from him in a long time. Book Guy designs computer systems and chips and reads, although I hate to say indiscriminately, I can at least say widely. He has time on his hands, he builds both hardware and software systems, contracts out to whoever pays him the most money, and spends most of the time he is not designing chips, software, or sleeping reading. The ultimate computer nerd with a bookish bent. Since he makes far more money than his lifestyle requires, he buys books in quantity and then periodically he sends stacks of books to his friends. The only catch is that we have to pass them on when we are done, although passing them on to local libraries is also OK. The books are nothing esoteric usually, but popular fiction, with the occasional surprise. No surprises here:
Stephen King: Liseys’ Story
David Baldacci: The Collectors
Robert Ludlum: The Bancroft Strategy
John Grisham: The Innocent Man
James Patterson: Cross
They might not have been things I would have read on my own, but Stephen King’s "Lisey’s Story" was on my list either for the library or to wait for the mass market paperback. At the moment the wait list for "Lisey’s story is three times the length of the supply list for all the libraries in the 3 county system, so I was in no rush. They will be good gym reading, and perhaps good travel reading for the upcoming Thanksgiving trip to Kansas. I am not sure any of the bro’s will be interested so I might have to pass them on elsewhere. Although I probably wouldn’t have bought these, I will enjoy reading them (I admit to not always being a critical reader) and brother C, who I tend to think of as being smarter and having impeccable taste, is probably far above this kind of thing.
None of these books are in my local branch library although they are all represented in the local library system. I will check tomorrow if they are interested in a donation of current fiction. I have been turned down before, although if they would publish a list of books they wanted to buy, I would consider purchasing same, reading and donating to a good cause. In case the library isn’t interested, if you harbor a hidden penchant for popular fiction, please advise.
Much was accomplished last week, but my accomplishments were not in the line of sewing. At one point I was, indeed, obsessed with knitting. But my jacket will wait.
But mostly I just needed to reclaim my life. I had time, but I also had too many projects sitting incomplete. There were too many piles of dirt and wiring and lumber tracked in by too many men, too many stacks of materials, too many of our own things that had been displaced. Too much time was wasted shifting things and finding things that had been shifted and made unavailable in the hopes that the job would have been completed long ago. Life seemed out of my control and I, as a result, felt in the thrall of the men in heavy boots. No more. We have been organized, and cleaned. Space has been reclaimed and along with it, time has been reclaimed as well.
I also managed to get out in the yard and clean out the flower beds, dig up the dahlias, and callas and put everything to rest for the winter. I was late. This should have all occurred in October, that month that is best stricken from memory, but I am happy to have the work over and no longer hanging over my head. My tulips have been planted, later than they should have been, and only time will tell if this will work or not, but now my mind is clear and I can embrace the future and whatever projects catch my fancy, even sewing projects.
It is 6:30 on a Monday. I am home from the gym. Dinner still needs to be made and there is still a pile of work on my desk to be completed, probably at least 2 hours worth, but I am no longer oppressed by "that which has not been done." I may not be sewing this evening, but the possibilities are once again endless and my time is my own to control as I see fit. My time is full of possibilities. Whether I knit or sew, I know in my heart that all is possible.
Life has been busy: too busy to read, too busy to pursue hobbies, too busy to cook too busy to write. There are things to report, if I still remember them when time is more forgiving, updates will be forthcoming.
If not, dream on….
When I went to Style Fabrics in Kingston on Sunday to drop off the Elna for repair, I of course took a look at the fabrics. Most of the fabrics were cotton and were obviously aimed at a client base based more on quilters than garment-sewers. This does not surprise me as it seems to be typical in this area.
However there was one small section with some evening fabrics, which was dominated at this time of year by fabrics aimed at holiday outfits. On one wall we saw a couple of silk and rayon velvets which were very nice. They were fairly lightweight but with a nice soft hand. A deep gray caught my eye first, but then I a saw a deep plum colored velvet, a little darker than a damson plum. It was lovely.
It has been on my mind ever since.
I thought of a dress, but what dress?
The velvet dress from the November Burda world of fashion immediately came to mind. I love the seaming on this dress and the godets, but I have major doubts about whether I can wear it. I almost wrote a post about this dress. You see, I have scoliosis (I have written about this before) and I am asymmetrical. I always fear that the diagonal seaming on a dress like this will accent my own asymmetricalities and make me look even more crooked. When I have tried garments on in the store this has been my experience, but it could also be a fitting issue, and it is possible that a well fitting garment might not have this effect. But I haven’t had the heart to try.
Or it is possible that the slope of the cuts could go the opposite direction. Why do these garments usually seem to go from left to right? not right to left? There must be a reason,
Either way it is irrelevant. I cannot picture the velvet I saw in this dress, I wanted something simple but with a little interest in the bodice.
Then when I was looking though the pattern stash, in an attempt at making headway with organization, I noticed this pattern:
This has the requisite detail at the top and looks very simple and elegant. The pattern is OOP from 2000 and I haven’t made it, but I have always thought I might.
I wonder if it would work in velvet, I think it calls for silk crepe.
I might have to buy the velvet just to drape it and see what I think.
No decision yet, I have at least another week, probably 10 days, before the machine will be ready. If the fabric is still there it was obviously meant to be.
What do you think?
Thank God it is Election Day. My votes have been cast, and I am thankful
for the privilege, but I am also glad it is over. Never in my life do I recall being so ready
to be past election day, never do I recall being harassed to this extent by
phone calls, by people extolling me to vote, to vote for their candidate, over
10 calls in the last two days from one party alone, not counting the other
side.
Whatever happened to civilized conversation? What happened to the idea that two people
could sit down and discuss their different views rationally, considering and
respecting the other person’s arguments if they were rationally thought out and
well presented? Whatever happened to the
idea that people did not judge their friends or acquaintances solely by what
political dogma they believed, or what religious beliefs they held?
the wrong reasons, simply because I was so frustrated at being harangued by
some narrow-minded individual, an individual who was trying to muster
votes for his candidate, a candidate for
whom I had planned on voting before our encounter (and whom I did in fact vote
for). But if I changed my vote out of
anger and prejudice, I would be guilty of the same thing that I find so frustrating.
parties. He asked if we would vote for
one of the candidates. We have both been
undecided in this particular race, both waffling, but at that point G honestly
responded that he was leaning toward the other side, although he had not yet
fully decided. Instead of offering
arguments and discussion attempting to sway G, this party representative became abusive and harangued
both of us, telling G he should “stay home and not vote”. I suppose he thinks you are only allowed to
vote if you hold the “right” beliefs.
In
an obviously misguided attempt to help the situation, (this person was
attempting to block access to our car) I truthfully informed the same person
that I was going to vote for his candidate, even though that meant I might only
cancel out G’s vote. After another
tirade, I was told that I should stay home and not vote as well. When I asked why, I was told that I shouldn’t
vote because I was married to “him” (G, the one voting for the other
candidate). I didn’t realize that choice of spouse
determined one’s right to vote in this country. Nor did I realize that we had given up the freedom of speech or
independent thought.
who was up against a popular incumbent, alienating the very voters who were
going to support his candidate in the poles seems very short-sighted. To tell the truth I was more offended by his
comment that I shouldn’t vote because of my choice of spouse than by the
insults tossed at that very same “wrong-voting” spouse. I suppose I have just become inured to
political bigotry, but I cannot accept the idea that the rights our ancestors
fought so hard to gain can be so flippantly cast aside.
I once thought that intelligent people could discuss issues
and agree to disagree, I thought intelligent people could respect each other’s
opinions even if they did not always agree on specifics. G and I have discussed aspects of this
election extensively, and although we usually vote alike we do not always. We do however, always listen to each other’s
arguments. I can fully understand G’s
reservations about both candidates, I have many of the same reservations, but
my conclusions are different. We both
tend to be independent thinkers and neither one of us has ever been a straight
party-line voter. I suppose that puts us
in the group everyone loves to hate. The
thing we both accept is that if we wish the right to form our own opinions, and
respect the intelligence of the other, we must also accept that they will
sometimes form opinions different from our own. Respect allows for this.
But I suppose some people don’t feel that we have the right
to disagree. And that makes me very
nervous, no matter which “side” they are on. I am tired of the left demonizing
the right and the right demonizing the left. I am tired of everyone toeing the party line, of no one daring to
express a contrary opinion.
the future.
The fiberglassing process began on Friday:
and continued Saturday, when, unfortunately, it was quite cloudy and difficult to photograph the process.
The final coat went on today. First the sanding:
followed by the final glossy white coat:
Luckily the camera reduced much of the glare. The good news is that it looks like there will be a good bit more light reflected into the house in the dark dreary winter.
Finally, construction has begun on the jacket! But first, there were still a few details to sort out.
I originally cut this jacket while I was in San Francisco at Sandra Betzina’s sewing camp. It is not a particularly constructed jacket, the upper bodice and back are cut as one piece with the sleeves, and it is not difficult to make. For this reason, and because I must share cutting table space with the 9 other camp attendees, I did not spend as much time as I often do when cutting out patterns and my project choices for sewing camp were planned with this in mind. I squared up the fabric meticulously and was very careful about placement of the pattern pieces on the fabric, but I did not thread trace or mark the stitching lines as I often do, and I used dressmaker’s carbon for all markings. Since I left camp early, the entire project was packed up and placed in a ziploc bag, pattern still attached to the pieces.
Because of the delay between cutting and construction I wanted to be certain I understood what had been done before and the plan for the jacket. I separated out the pieces, checked that all the markings were in place, removed the pattern tissue, and stacked the pieces together in order of construction use so that I would not spend time later on trying to find specific pieces.
The pattern instructions start with the darts in the upper front piece. One dart extends to the edge of the fabric and adds shoulder shaping and the other date is completely within the fabric and adds shaping at the neck. I don’t always sew darts first, no matter what the pattern instructions state, but in this case it seems the prudent way to begin.
I started with the neck dart:
The instructions are pretty clear on this point, stating to start pinning at the center of the dart, and then to sew the dart in two passes, from the center to the tips. This is normally the way I would sew a dart of this shape as it is the only way to gaurantee that the dart is not distorted in sewing.
To begin, I placed a pin in the center of the dart, making sure that the lines on both sides were perfectly aligned. Then I pinned out from the center to the tips of the dart. Notice that I used an orange pin to mark the center, and I was careful not to use orange pins in any other part of the dart. I also used blue pins exclusively to mark the points.
By using the orange pin to mark the center, I immediately knew where to start stitching the first time I put the dart in the machine:
Notice that the needle is actually a little behind the center pin, which I am about to remove. When I stitch the other half of the dart I will again start a little beyond the center to insure that there will be no weakness or pulling stitches at the center of the dart. Since I am so easily distracted, I need little markers like this to act as reminders.
I use blue pins at the end of the dart to remind me that I am coming to the edge of the fabric (and yes I know it is pretty obvious). The blue pin reminds me that I am going to turn down my stitch length as I approach the end of the dart, probably first going down to 1.5 mm and then to 1mm by the time I am a few stitches from the edge.
I used the same technique of using blue pins at the end of the shoulder darts as well, even though these were stitched straight down from the edge of the fabric (shoulder seam). The darts are longer and I am still not always likely to pay attention, the end of the dart can creep up before I expect it, so subtle little reminders like this really help me focus.
After all the darts were sewn they had to be pressed. I always press the darts first with the right sides together to meld the stitches, only then do I open the fabric and press the dart into its final position. Since each of these darts created a curve in the fabric the final pressing had to be done on my tailor’s ham and I very carefully folded the dart in place, holding it with my left hand while I pressed with my right, trying to ensure that there was no excess folding of the fabric or bubbles or dimples at the points. This fabric is a wool blend with some synthetic fibers and it tends to stick to the iron. It is very important to remember to use a press cloth; I usually use silk organza so that I can see through it as I work, and it takes the heat well. After pressing, I leave the fabric on the ham to cool and dry before moving it to press the next section. Although the darts were small, I could not press each dart in its entirety in one pass, so significant time accumulated, allowing me to write my notes.
Even on a relatively simple project like this, more time is spent checking that everything is aligned, pinning, and pressing than in the actual sewing. I remain convinced that the meticulousness pays off, although even I can admit that perhaps I carry things too far (colored-coded pins after all are a little excessive).
After the darts were sewn in the front pieces it was time to
serge the edges. Now I know that I am
not “supposed” to serge the edges before stitching the garment but I do. I am usually really careful with this step;
usually I have marked my stitching lines, either with chalk, pastels or by
making tailor’s tacks. But this is
supposed to be a quick project and I cut and marked it at camp. I did not mark the stitching lines. So I am very careful to serge right at the
edge of the fabric eliminating none or as little of the seam allowance as
possible.
Usually serging the pieces is the first thing I do after
marking everything because I hate working with the raveled edges of
fabric. On this jacket however, I sewed the darts
at the shoulder first because I thought the edge would be two bulky if I had
six layers of serged edges at the center shoulder. By serging after I have sewn and pressed the
darts I get a nice flat seam. Of course
if I made a mistake with the darts, this will be much more difficult to
correct, but that is why I made a muslin first, to correct any issues with the
darts before I started making the final garment. Hopefully I did everything correctly and this will work out well.
All this fuss over pinning and pressing, plus the fact that I had forgotten to thread the serger before I started, means that I spent 2 hours just getting the two upper front pieces ready for the next step of construction and the next step will have to wait.