Author: 459856pwpadmin

  • Planting Peas

    Last week's mini heat-wave had me itching to be out in the garden and I considered myself lucky that, despite all the running around that seemed to piled on my schedule, I managed to get out for the better part of a couple of days before the weather turned cool, and scheduling demands once again interfered.

    Now, there is much to do out in my neglected patch of earth:  flower beds that need to be cleaned out and reclaimed, trampled mud around constructions sites, a brown and overgrown front yard; but I did not attend to any of these.

    IMG_2854  Instead I wandered down to the old vegetable garden, abandoned since the end of the season in 2006.  When I tried to open the gate, a task which took considerable effort as it was entwined with dead vines and rasberry canes, this is the view that greeeted me:

    I was overwhelmed.  I sat down on the clam bucket I used for gathering weeds and garden detritus and generally considered if I really wanted to tackle this job.  I almost turned away.

    I had considered abandoning the vegetable garden, just hiring someone to rip out the fence and come in with a back hoe and turn it all back into level ground and patchy lawn.  I am not by nature a gardener, although when I am gardening, I am fully engaged in the activity.  I will not live in this house forever.  If and when I move I may not want a large yard and there are plenty of other things here that need attention.  Growing vegetables should be the least of my priorities.

    And yet.  When the sun came out and the temperatures became balmy, I immediately started thinking about getting my hands in the dirt.  But I wasn't thinking about growing flowers, much as I love them.  I was thinking about vegetables; specifically, I was thinking about peas.  One of the great joys of Spring for me is waiting for the snow to melt off the vegetable garden, which is usually the last part of the yard to hold on to the snow, a little plot of property that is cold in the winter while also being one of the hottest, sunniest patches of the yard in summer.  Then, as soon as the snow is gone and the ground is dry enough to work I would plant peas.

    I usually try to get my peas in by Saint Patrick's day, my own little personal celebration of green.  I didn't make it this year, but I did have them planted by the weekend.  Peas don't mind frost or even snow.  If the weather is unusually cold they take a little longer to grow, if it is mild I get to harvest them a little faster.  There is nothing like the early pea crop, in mid to late May.  And there is nothing quite like peas eaten within an hour of being removed from the vine.

    I still have to clean out the flower beds.  I will get that done in the next week or so, even though it is colder now.  But I am thrilled by the promise of peas.  I plant flower beds and landscape the yard because I am picky about how it looks, and I don't want the same over-used cookie cutter yard that I see everywhere around me.  I garden because I love art and form and color, not really because I love to garden.  I want my yard to be an expression of this love, not to look like every nice yard in the neighborhood.  I am also far more willing to live with my own idiosyncrasies and failures than I am willing to accept mundane mediocrity.

    I plant vegetables however because I obsess about food.  I love to cook.  I love to eat.  I care about the raw ingredients that appear on our table.  When I started gardening, farm stands were fewer and further between and there was no weekend farmer's market.  I don't need to grow as much now, I can easily buy what I need in season.  But I can't buy peas right off the vine.  I can't usually buy peas in May.  Most of the peas come in during June, and if we have a cold spring my peas come in in June as well.  But if we have a hot spell in May or June, and this is common, the peas are worse for it.  It is worth the risk to me, to savor those few precious spring peas.

    IMG_2860  It took me one day just to clear out the path and dig up branches and roots in one small 5' x5' planting bed.  It took me another day to double dig that bed, and amend the soil and get it ready for planting.  After all that, putting in the peas was easy.  It doesn't look like much, but it felt like such an accomplishment.  Now I just have to wait for them to sprout.

    Oh, and I have to clean out the rest of the garden.  I need to clear some space for Fava Beans next.  And work on the flower beds as well.

  • The promise of Spring

    Little bits of color started to appear last week.

    IMG_2851

    The days were warm, in the 70s.

    IMG_2849
     

    It is only March.  I am sure there are several cold days remaining.  After all, our last frost date isn't until mid-May.  

    IMG_2850
     

    Of course, we all hope that the warm weather is here to stay, that this will be our reward for putting up with last summer which was cold.  It has not escaped my attention that this past week was warmer than most of last summer.

  • Shopping

    Spring hit me rather hard last week.  

    The temperature was gloriously warm.  The sun was shining, and suddenly all those lovely, newly fitting winter clothes seemed dark and dreary and drab.  Oh I am sure there will be opportunity to wear them yet.  I am well aware that last week was warmer than most of last summer, but spring fever was upon me.

    Unfortunately spring clothes are still in short supply around here and I had no real intention of making them all.

    IMG_2858  I had already ordered a stack of tees, having discovered that I had only one long sleeve cotton tee, a wardrobe necessity.  The one in hand was a deep blue-purple, nice but limiting.  A supply of black and white was immediately necessary, and few flattering colors wouldn't hurt.  Luckily I quickly discovered that J. Crew's "perfect fit" tees did, indeed, fit me perfectly.

    But then, with the warm weather I was itching to get to work in the yard, which has been long neglected.  I refuse to garden in St. John wool knit pants however, or heels, and more shopping was in order, namely for basic pants to get me through the summer working in the yard and running in to town to get mail or make a quick stop at the lumberyard or garden supply store.  

    Nothing fancy was required, just jeans and/or chinos.  I could make them.  I have made jeans, although not completely satisfactorily, and I wanted jeans that functioned but in which I also felt comfortable going to town. I also wanted my jeans now, not three muslins from now so I went shopping. Perhaps this is too much to ask, but luckily I continue to be able to find nice jeans.

    Gap always skinny  In fact the day I went jeans-shopping last week, my first stop ended up being my last stop.  I walked into the Gap, pulled two pairs of jeans off the shelf in two different styles and made my way to the dressing room.  Both pairs fit fabulously.  

    I ended up with two pairs of "Always skinny" jeans, one in a dark wash for going to town and one in a medium wash which will hopefully function for all casual activities.  I've been without dark wash jeans for a few months now, and I've missed them.  I seem to have come late to the appreciation of dark jeans.

    As for the medium wash.  I promptly got online and ordered two more pairs as they only had one pair in the store in my size.  I've already hemmed the first pair and worn them in the garden all weekend.  And I am quite grateful that The Gap uses a fairly standard jeans-type topstitching thread so that the thread in my stash matched the thread used on the jeans.  It really bugs me when the stitching at the hem does not match the rest of the jeans, even in the garden.

    As for the other pairs, they too are necessary, even though I am trying to get away from buying too many multiples.  After all I would like to have two pairs of jeans lest one pair be covered in mud or grass or what-have-you, and I prefer not to have to wash my jeans every night if I am working in the yard.  Every other night is often enough.

    And I also need a pair to leave long to wear with heels.  Yes, I wear jeans with heels.  I wear medium wash jeans with heels.  I used to feel guilty about this.  I am far too prone to guilt.  I don't wear my dark wash straight (read skinny, although the skinny jeans are not nearly as skinny on me as on the model) jeans with heels, but I do wear the medium wash jeans.  It finally occurred to me that my issue with jeans is not dressing them up by wearing a dark wash, my issue is using jeans to dress a more formal garment down.  I wear the medium wash jeans to take the formal edge off a too formal or too dressy jacket so that I can wear it around town without feeling like I've gotten all gussied up.

    I am completely relieved to have that settled in my head.

    Gap perfec boot dark  I also came home with a pair of dark wash boot cut jeans. I haven't had a pair of dark wash jeans since November when I finally recognized that my old pair was unflatteringly large and I have missed them terribly. They are my preferred silhouette, along with trouser jeans, as they make my legs look longer.   I don't really need multiples of these.  Or perhaps I wish I did, because I think I could live in them.  But I don't, need them that is. And having too many pairs of the exact same style is boring, except when they are needed of course.

    A nicely fitting pair of chinos seems to be  more problematic.  Perhaps I will end up sewing those.  But then again, perhaps not.

    The problem is, if shopping is so easy, a couple of issues pop into my head:

    If I can go to a store and get clothes that fit and I like easily, why should I bother trying to reach my weight loss goal?  Isn't the whole thing about feeling comfortable with myself?And if I have clothes that fit and flatter, I tend to feel comfortable with myself.   Of course that is the same thought that got me started gaining weight in the first place. 

    Secondly, if I can buy jeans or chinos, why should I sew them?  Luckily I live in an age when I can run to the store and buy manufactured clothes.  I do not have to literally clothe myself and my family.  This is a good thing.  Besides I would rather sew something I enjoy sewing.  Actually, finding clothes I like is rather liberating.  It takes the pressure off.  That sense of desperation, of not having something to wear is gone.  Now I can just enjoy.

  • And the Winner is

    Thank you all for your comments and interest in the Marfy pattern.  

    I entered you all into the drawing this morning and the winner is Aud!

    Today, I must get out in the yard and start doing something to reclaim this piece of property after a few years of neglect.  And I do mean must, not just as an obligation because I live here and have a certain amount of pride, but because the warm sunshine of the last few days has me dreaming of plants and flowers and gardens and yes, vegetables too.  It is only March.  Our last frost date is still a couple of months away.  But garden I must.  I am looking forward to pulling things out of the ground and stamping around in the slushy mud that remains.  I am sure there must be some deeper meaning there, but I prefer not to contemplate it.

    But first I must go hem a pair of jeans.  I will not go out digging and uprooting things in nice wool pants and heels.  More about that later.

  • Suddenly I don’t worry about style

    What a relief.  Suddenly I don't worry about style.  Who cares?  I think fretting about style was a symptom of something else.  It is not that I don't worry about these things; I love clothes, they are never far from my brain it is true. And I still think about what I want, what would look good, what goes with what.  But I don't need to force the issue.  I know what I like.  I know what I don't.  There is enough room in the world for all of us to be whatever we wish.

     I finally realized that the basic dichotomy that follows me in everything I do and love remains a constant.  I love the simple.  And I love the incredibly ornate.  Simple predominates, except when it doesn't.   Simple, isn't it?

    I think I was trying to be something in-between, something not me.  I was trying to pain that picture and then trying to live up to the portrait I had assembled.  Not so simple at all.

    I realize I need jeans again.  I mentioned somewhere that I was going to need jeans soon, when I reached a certain goal.  That point has come and gone.  And spring seems to be approaching rapidly.  I need jeans.  I need simple clothes for every day. I need clothes I can wear to work in the yard.  If they are also up for going to the post office all the better.  I have been known to work in the yard in some baggy old worn out thing that I loved but with which I was not quite ready to part.  That is no longer a possibility.  Those old things are gone.  Really, they were too big to wear anyway.  I don't need to hang on to the past.

    And now Spring is coming and I cannot live in cashmere and wool forever.

    Isn't that why I was working on a shirt muslin?  yes.

    Isn't that why I was working on pants?  yes.

    Am I going to sew everything I wear?  not on your life.

    Seems like it may be time to get a move on.

  • Marfy giveaway

    I am still putting my "House" in order, physically and metaphorically.  But I am not working to quickly.  It is important to enjoy the days as well.

    I am sorting and cataloging my sewing patterns.  I have just finished going through the Marfy patterns.  I have not made a Marfy pattern for 5 years, but I have acquired a few in the meantime.  Actually I am quite happy with my choices, I still want to make these garments, although some are perhaps a little too formal for my current life.  I am not willing to commit to never using them though.

    Picture 2  There is one Marfy pattern in which I have no interest, and no, it is not one of the patterns I bought, which is gratifying.  It is one of the pattern sheets that comes with the Marfy catalog.  This one is from the Winter 2007/2008 catalog and includes patterns for two skirts, pants, a blouse, a shirt-jacket and a lovely little cape.  I will not make any of these patterns.

    Picture 1  I have decided to give this pattern sheet away if anyone wants it.  The six patterns are on a fold out pattern sheet and need to be traced.  The sizes included are 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 54, and 58. Remember that Marfy patterns do not include seam allowances or instructions.  A size chart can be found here. Although there is also one available on the McCalls website, I prefer Marfy's as they list measurements in both centimeters and inches and I don't have to do the math.

    Pictures of the garments are shown here and I will include them with the pattern sheet.  I no longer have the book though, these pictures were cut out of the book and pasted to a file folder.

    If you are interested in the patterns please just leave a comment to that effect.  If more than one of you is interested I will draw a name on Saturday morning using a random number generator.

  • Lessons from the china closet

    We have been looking at china.  

    What does this have to do with sewing and clothing you ask?  Surprisingly, a great deal.

    I wanted new china.  I don't particularly like what we have and use everyday, although it was a great improvement over the china we had before: china I liked more style-wise but disliked contextually.  That china was a wedding gift to my DH and his first wife; she didn't want it, he kept it.  The stuff we have now is the result of protracted negotiations and was a compromise for all parties; neither one of us was happy, but we could both accept it.  It is time for a change.

    As we were looking at china, looking at what is available, what we have, and what I actually like, as opposed to what I was expected to like, I was struck by something.

    CHina Dreams
     

    Apparently my taste in china runs to extremes, as it actually does in many other things as well.  I tend to like very plain, simple, modern pieces, things one of G's cousins calls "stark", or very ornate embellished pieces.  As for the majority of china patterns, which for the most part fall in between these extremes, there is very very little I like, although I am drawn to a few simple patterns with strong bands of color and little embellishment, patterns with an almost architectural feel.

    What struck me was that I could apply this knowledge to my wardrobe as well.  I like very simple austere clothes, and I actually can do minimalism on occasion and pull it off, but I can't stick with it.  I am also drawn to very dramatic, sometimes highly constructed, pieces.  And then there is my love of the dramatic accessory and interesting color combinations.   

    And yet, although most of my clothing choices tend to be fairly classic, I feel  rather blah and discomfited with fairly classic ways of putting things together.  I need, in my clothing choices, to stick with very simple structured pieces, almost to the point of being stark, or go for a strongly  decorous effect, and I feel compromised when I try to take a middle path.

    I spent a little time perusing china patterns just to make myself a kind of visual guide.  I think over time it will prove quite clarifying.

    I am sure there is a way to work this out without looking like I am going to a monastery one day or a party at Versailles the next.  

  • A TNT jacket

    I'm still sorting and assessing and putting my life back to rights.  In my bits and pieces of spare time, I've moved from the closet(s), which I haven't finished, to the rest of the house: cleaning, sorting, rearranging, and settling, with a rather hefty dose of negotiating going on as well.  It is a slow process, but worthwhile.  I think of it as a rather grand spring cleaning, and it was long overdue.  

    But while I was involved in spring cleaning, Spring seems to have actually crept in unannounced.  I wasn't quite ready.  After all I just found all those lovely wools to wear. 

    IMG_2746Luckily I do have choices now, and one of my projects has involved figuring out how the bits and pieces that remain can work together, and what I actually am missing and need in my wardrobe as well as what I have to work with. 

    With the return of warmer weather and the promise of spring clothes I am also finding the remnants of TNT patterns past.  The trick is to reassess them now and see if they retain enough appeal to be reworked to fit my figure as it is now.

    Take this long jacket.  This is made from an OOP Vogue pattern by Sandra Betzina, 7022, which is a princess-seamed cardigan jacket.  I had made it several times by the time I made this long version.

    This iteration was made nearly 7 years ago and was part of my (step)MOB outfit.  The matching dress no longer fits; it is too small through the bust and too large through the hips and thighs.  The coat, however, is not bad.  It is actually a little too big, probably the only reason it does not pull through the bust, and if I were wearing it buttoned over a simple and thin sheath dress the sizing would be obvious.  But it works worn as a duster with pants or jeans and it will get me through part if not most of this season.

    The fabric is really interesting in this coat.  It has a woven raffia like appearance on the surface, but this is just a surface effect of a knit fabric.  The fabric was from Cadena of Spain and I purchased it after seeing the same or similar fabric used in a collection of suits by the Italian house Mila Schön around 2001 or 2002.  The fabric grew with excess manipulation, although it steamed into shape beautifully, it shed little bits of fiber everywhere, and it snags easily. But it is beautiful.

    Vogue 7022  Here is the pattern picture. 

    The question is whether I would use this again.  I don't need jackets for work, but this is a basic, if boring, shape. I really think I feel better and therefore look better with a bit of tailoring in my garments and this gives me the feel of a cardigan with a little extra structure.  But whether it works or is dowdy will all be up to the fabric and the fit.  I think it can be pulled off.  The pattern will need some alterations for my new shape, and it desperately needs to lose the shoulder pads.  It may work best for me in the longer length, but I will need to play with the muslin to be sure, and for me, it will all depend on the fabric.

    What I am uncertain about right now is whether I am looking at this pattern realistically, or if my judgement is clouded by the jacket I am wearing and my love for it.

    As for my needs list, this outfit, for all that I feel right at home in it, the following notes were added to my file:

    New white shirts that fit: (muslin was in works — finish and make shirts)

    New Jeans.  These are getting too baggy to wear but for the most casual of days.  They will make good jeans for yard work after a replacement pair has been procured.

    Replace the coat.  I like the feel and structure of this more than a long cardigan.  Look for soft, interesting fabric, that lend a more casual feel to this tailored jacket. Check fabric collection for a suitable replacement in a shade more appropriate for current coloring.  Check patterns for dusters and long jackets. No rush, this one will get me through most of the spring.

  • Flush

    I'm still cleaning out the closets.  I spent a lot of time for a couple of days doing the basic stuff, things I wear every day like pants, skirts, and knit tops.  And I've worked a little bit every day since, but there are still things I am avoiding, like my sweaters.  But I've gotten rid of a lot of stuff, really an amazing amount of stuff.  

    IMG_2646  So what I have I found in the closets?  Quite a bit actually.

    I have 8 pairs of pants I can wear now, and one pair of summer pants, over there on the far left in the photo.  By summer I will need pants as the striped pair shown here are anything but basic, unless perhaps I run away and join the circus.

     Pants are perfect for right now when it is cold and windy, snowy and slushy outside and the fact that I have so many choices amazes me.

    The pants are grouped by heel height, and within that by color.  I always aim to have basic pants in at least two, if not three lengths, to accommodate different heels. 

    From left to right:

    2 pairs of black pants I can wear with flats:  one Saint John knit pair, and a pair of slim fitting matte jersey pants, that will actually be comfortable well into spring.

    1 pair of gray stretch cotton chinos.  This sit a little higher in the waist than is currently fashionable but they fit so well it is almost uncanny.  None of the problems I usually have with pants is evident in this pair.  I should trace them off and compare them to my pant pattern from November.

    1 pair of yellow cords.  I need some color to keep me sane.  

    Then there are two pairs of black pants to wear with mid-heels 1 1/2 to 2 inches or so.  One of these is solid, the other is a lovely suiting fabric with gray and red pinstripes.

    Finally, on the right, two pairs to wear with heels, black and winter white.  As I said, I am set. 

    IMG_2628  The skirt population took a bigger hit.  But even here I have enough choices to get me through the season.  

    White with red and black appliques.

    Two pencil skirts in black, one with little pleats at the knee.

    My favorite turquoise plaid Pendelton skirt, which has been taken up twice and will not be taken up again.

    There are several other skirts, all skirts I made in 2005 or 2006 that have been put aside as they can be easily altered and worn and still look good.  We will see if I get to them.

    Otherwise everything else has gone.

    Two things I have learned so far:

    1.  I do indeed have a few TNT patterns, or will after a few very minor alterations.  They are all patterns for things I made in 2004 or 2005.

    2.  Good fabric truly is worth the investment.  The things I own that are made of really good fabric have held up beautifully and fresh and new.  The styles may not be perfectly current, but they are classic enough and the fabric good enough that they are fine.  Things I made out of less than stellar fabric often look tired and worn-out, even if they haven't been worn that much.  They weren't worth the effort that went into them, unless I was sewing them as a quick thrill to wear and toss.

    Quick thrills aren't usually my style.

  • Through the closet door and into dreams: Ralph Rucci Fall 2010

    Chado1  I've been cleaning out my closet.  This time I am being really brutal.  I must love it.  I must love it on.  No settling.

    I am finding that I had forgotten how nice I feel in nice clothes, that I like tailoring, that I love a beautiful dress and heels, nice ladylike flats too, but especially heels.  I like dressing up.  Where have I been?  How could I forget?

    Oh yes, I remember now.  Caregiver.  What a terrible word.  What a terrible style.

    Chado9  I want to repudiate caregiver style.  Oh wearing jeans has been good for me.  I have learned to be casual; this took a long time, and there are days this is all I want.  But more often I want to be in a suit or dress and heels even though this is not the wardrobe expected in my life.  

    One must gauge the climate.  One must also gauge the temperature of the woman, and find a meeting point where both coexist in comfort.  I am working on this; slowly yet, but working nonetheless.

    I want to wear what I want simply because I want to wear it.

    Chado7  I'm not far enough along in the closet restructuring to report anything, but I have been inspired to look at the fall collections.  Of course I started at the top, with my favorite, Chado by Ralph Rucci.  You must go look at the collection.  It is amazing.  Almost every piece is gorgeous.  The man is a genious.  Obviously I am stark-raving-mad for this collection.  I like it so much I have looked at it over and over.  I like it so much I haven't looked at anything else.

    Chado23  I am so inspired I'm loopy.

    Chado36  There are so many things here that speak to me.  Some are ideas for things to make.  I'm not really planning direct knock-offs.  I stopped that years ago, I'm more interested in stealing inspiration, and Ralph Rucci's work is all inspiration.  Besides, my skills aren't up to creating some of these things, not yet, perhaps not ever.  

    But my love of this collection goes beyond just wanting the clothes, and yes I do want them.  It goes beyond just dreaming of making the clothes, or using them for inspiration.  This collection reminds me of something fundamental and basic that is in my style, something with which I had floundered for a while. 

    If style is also a reflection of who you are, of the place you want to mark in the world, when the world throws you for a loop it is conceivable that even style can get lost.  Chado46  But to deny one's style is to deny a fundamental piece of oneself, whether that style be "high" or "low", combat boots or Christian Louboutin.

    I love these garments in and of themselves.  They are perfection.  They remind me of what I like, they remind me not to go down frivolous paths following whims.  

    Sometimes I just look at something and say that is how I wish clothing could be, how I wish life could be, the life for those clothing.  

    Aspirational.  

    Chado47  Inspirational.

    Clothing that makes me wax philosophic. Not a good sign.  Did I not tell you I was loopy? We all know I am not good at philosophy, and I am worse at writing about it.  

    Did you know that in college I was told that I "write badly very well", and that I should write the blurbs that you find on the back of novels, enticing the reader to open the pages?  

    It is true.  But it is not correct.  I let my mind wander far too freely to write blurbs.

    Even in the context of these fabulous clothes my mind wanders beyond "where could I wear this" and "how could I reproduce that" and thinks of blurbs.

    These are dream clothes.  They are not clothes for driving the garbage cans up the hill, or doing all those other practical things.  I don't think dreams need to be practical.