Author: 459856pwpadmin

  • Princess Shirt drafts: Back

    Last week was a non-starter as far as sewing was concerned.  Routines were interrupted and we no longer weather interruptions to the routines well.  

    But I finally took a look at the princess shirt muslin.  I separated the back from the front and started looking at the changes to be made when I realized that never recorded, either here or in my little notebook the changes that had already been made.  I do want to reproduce what I have learned and although I have the final version of the pattern, understanding how I got there is also beneficial.

    Generally, my initial choices with cutting the pattern were not a bad start, and the changes to be made were minor.  To re-iterate, I cut a size 16 at the neckline, a 12 at the shoulders and back armscye, and an 8 through the front upper chest and armsyce tapering back to a 12 at the shoulder and side seam.  I did not do an FBA even though I knew I would need it, and I did not add extra fabric at the hips although I needed that as well.

    Next for the changes I have made, and those I need to make, beginning with the back.

    IMG_1881 

    The initial changes that Kenneth King made to my first muslin were pretty simple.

    The neckline was too low in the back, so I raised it 3/4" at the center, tapering to nothing at the armscye seam.  I realize that all shirts, blouses, tees, and tops ride too low, and I guess I knew that in my head, just as I know that my neck is forward compared to the "ideal" but I never thought about adding the extra fabric.  Previous fitting seminars have had me lengthen the shoulder seam from the base of the neckline, but not raise the entire upper back and shoulders.  I think this may work better and be more accurate.  In order to do this I had to change the center back line which was to be cut on the fold to a seamline, which of course now has a curve in it.  We did flatten that curve somewhat as I didn't need quite as much curve as the 3/4" provided by I did need some to accommodate the forward neck.  The upper part of the back seam acts as a kind of dart, shaping the back to the body.

    I also made the side back piece wider at the lower armscye, increasing it about 3/8 of an inch.  If you click on the photo above you can see the paper added below the pattern to increase the length to the neck, as well as the redrawn  armscye seam.  I am sorry that I did not take pictures of this as I went along, and these photos do not show great detail, but I think you get the idea.  I also added about 1/2" at the hip where the side back meets the center back piece (although not in the center back seam) and 1  1/4 inch at the side seam on the back piece. I did not widen the front side seam by the same amount, only 1/2 inch at the hips on the front side seam.   I needed the extra fabric in the rear, not the front.

    Princessback  Now before I move to the front piece I will show you what I need to do next to the back.  I have not made these changes yet, they are still marked only on the muslin:

    I've tried to explain these markings directly on the photo, and if you click on the picture it should enlarge enough for you to see the changes to be made.

    First, I need to take 3/4" of length out at the center back tapering to the nothing at the sides.  Wait.  Didn't I just add 3/4"?

    Ahh, but it is not in the same place.  I needed 3/4" at the neckline, in the upper back, to have the neckline fall at the proper place.  But I had excess fabric lower down, below the bra-line but above the waist.  This is not surprising, as I have learned to take this amount out of the back of my sweaters, using a short-row dart technique to remove extra length from the center back without changing the side seams.  So I am not actually adding length to the pattern, I am just repositioning its distribution.

    Then the fun begins.  Please click on the photo as I think it will be much more clear.  My shirt twists on my torso.  I am going to cut the back on the black line, cutting all the way across.  Then I am going to move the upper piece to the left and the lower piece to the right by the amount marked by the two vertical lines with the arrows between them.  After everything is lined up I am going to redraw and true up my seam lines creating 4 new back pattern pieces.  

    At the moment my pattern pieces are symmetrical and are cut double.  I will need to trace off two more pattern pieces before I do this, as the final result will yield pattern pieces that are no longer symmetrical on paper, but they will look symmetrical on me.

    Tomorrow I will show you the front pattern pieces.

  • Home Again, Home Again

    Marji reminded me how much I enjoyed being "Sew Distracted".  

    I always knew I would sew again.  But I believed, erroneously, that I would not get "it" back.  I'm not there yet but I may have been wrong.  In many ways I was the backward member of this class, even though I once thought I could sew pretty well.  Even then I never had confidence.  Working on muslins and learning a lot about fitting me, and watching experienced people working on their projects was very inspiring and motivating.  It was a perfect opportunity to begin getting myself back into some kind of sewing shape. Sometimes I felt panicky and doubted my abilities, sometimes however my doubts were proved wrong and I learned to trust my judgements. Sometimes I learned that I really need more practice, but I know I'll get there — perhaps not sewing as beautifully as Marji, who will always be leagues ahead of me, but I will get better. 

    Kenneth King made fitting and pattern alteration seem perfectly logical, whereas I used to think it was some kind of voodoo black magic.  Susan gave me confidence to take my time and take control.

    Anyway.  This blog is back.  And I have linked to the missing sewing posts to provide continuity.  

    More to come.

  • Follow Me

    There is a new tunic, refashioned from two turtlenecks that would have otherwise gone to the salvation army.

    I am finally cutting into a stack of fabrics posted in July.

    All of this is being chronicled over at PurlsandMurmurs.  Along with cleaning-up, consolidating, and reclaiming the piles and unfinished business of my life I am also consolidating blogs.   Sewing has been on the back burner for a while now, but as I am getting a handle on things I let slide, it is moving forward.  There is and will be sewing.  I hope you will follow me there.

  • A meme and a new beginning

    Award1premio_meme_award The lovely and charming Materfamilias has bestowed me with the Premium Meme Award the rules of which are to "list 7 of your personality traits, as evidenced on your blog, and then pass the award on to 7 other blogs with notable personality."

    Truthfully, I am intrigued and puzzled by the meme, rather confounded by what I shall find, and indeed, if the things I see exposed in the blog are the same things that my readers see, as I don't think I have ever been particularly good at perceiving how others see me either here, or in real life, where I have less control over what parts of my personality are put n display.  This is the part of my personality I would call oblivious, but I don't think it is particularly well displayed on my blog, or at least I hope not.

    So, here is my list:

    1.  Introspective.

    2.  Observant.

    3. Sentimental.  Not that I am particularly sentimental about things, but that I am interested in the sentiments and feelings that situations or events produce, sentimental in terms of being preoccupied with sentiments, feelings, and emotions.

    4.  Analytical, especially self-analytical.

    5. Loquacious (sorry Mater, I am stealing this from you) as I tend to go on and on.

    6. Superficial.

    7.  Self-contained.  I was actually torn here between self-contained, introverted, or hidden, as aspects of all of these are in evidence on Dooney's world, and in my life.  Although I attempt to be very honest about the things I write about, one gets a very limited view of a life through this blog, and yet one also gets a pretty  complete view of certain aspects of this life.

    I don't know if these are an accurate reflection of what is reflected in this blog but it does seem like a suitable closing note.  Indeed, this is my last post on Dooney's world.  But not to worry. My frivolous self-absorbed musings will continue in another location.  

    I have decided that it is time to consolidate my blogs and my various musings into one place, hopefully a place that will in the long run be a more accurate reflection of the author (me).  You can follow my meandering thoughts, as well as ruminations on style and my occasional creative outbursts over at the old/new blog PurlsandMurmurs.


     

  • Oops. Mail Redux

    IMG_0839 This fabric arrived before the book.

    I was sure I had posted it.  I remember reading my post.  Apparently I did not save it though and I can no longer recreate it.

    A selection of cottons. The top piece, the peachy one with the gingko leaves was ostensibly the reason for the order.  I had ordered a small piece, about a yard, for an apron but when it arrived I immediately envisioned it as something else.  

    IMG_0840 Since I also happened to notice that my cotton print drawer was looking kind of sparsly populated, I took the opportunity to purchase a few other things I thought were pretty.  There are no specific projects in mind for these other fabrics…..yet.

  • More Mail

    David Page Coffin's new book arrived today.   I spent most of my free time today looking at it, reading bits of it, and looking at it some more.

    Trousers

    If you haven't done so already, Buy This Book.

    I am going to need to make some pants soon enough.  I was thinking I wasn't quite ready for that yet as my attentions are still somewhat running toward scatter-brained.  

    This should really help me focus my thoughts.  I have a lot to think about and a lot to absorb.  It should be fun.

  • Lazy Days

    I've been rather quiet and away from the computer the last couple of weeks, just enjoying the lovely summer weather, the pool, time with my sweetie, and doing odd things about the house.  I've even been letting the emails pile up in my inbox, so if I haven't gotten back to you in response to your comments, know that I will, in time.  

    There is so much to do in our chaotic lives, and of course, I tend to add things to that already demanding list, always wanting to do more, more, more.  But in the end, I increasingly think that the constant push toward more ends up making our lives less.  I think this is why I am so attracted to clean modern lines which offer a peaceful oasis from the craziness of life, even as I appreciate the tension between my striving for simplicity and quiet with my often overriding urge to DO.

    It is not that there is nothing to write about, nothing to share, but at the moment I am more content to just savor the days.  I don't want to take the time to step outside the moment and record it.  I think that is the same reason that, for many years, I did not take picture on our travels, because I found that if I was playing photographer, I was focused on stepping outside the experience and recording it, and obsessed about how best to record it.  Without a camera I could just absorb and enjoy, and oddly, those vacations which are least photographed are the ones most permanently etched in my memory.

    Today I am just enjoying the day.  I am sure I will eventually reach some happy medium where there is some balance between absorbing the moment and commenting.  That could just be because I keep adding new variables into the routine and I need time to let everything settle into its given track.

  • Patterns finally filed, and a new one on the way

    HP-CN-3-Graces-T-shirts-envelope-f Did you see the new Hot Patterns Three Graces Tee?  I have been thinking about something along just these lines as I looked at the things in my closet and contemplated what I need to fill in a few empty corners,  and Voilá, pattern needs fulfilled.

    Of course, I ordered it.  I am pretty certain that I have fabric to use making it up, but I am still working on colors/what I actually want — I've never been one to just make something without some sort of plan.

    And speaking of planning that pretty much covers what I've been up to.  I had a stack of muslins that I have worked on in the last couple of years, a bunch of UFOs, and tons of plans that I have written about here or just jotted down in various notebooks.  It really is well past time I had some kind of coherent way to keep track of things.  But then, I really let a lot of stuff slide for a long time, and I just can't let it continue on in that chaotic state.  So I am gathering together and making right; working mostly in bits and pieces.  I have time to indulge in my various interests and creative endeavors, but it is more scattered time than before, and I am rather enjoying the slow togetherness right now, still working out balancing time together versus alone,  especially since G's initiative and ability to find ways to occupy himself will probably never be quite what it was.  

    IMG_0786 I did get time to file the patterns I ordered from Vogue.  It was a large order and it took me quite a while.  I hate to think that there previous orders stacked up on the side of my sewing room floor, waiting for me to file them.  

    On Friday, the first day I had to work on it following a whirlwind visit from step-son Adam, I printed out all the catalog pages so I could put them in my pattern notebooks.  Even though this is so much easier now that I can just copy the pictures directly from Vogue's website, faster than scanning in patterns, and far faster than my pre-computerized days when I traced or sketched all the pattern drawings on onionskin paper that I kept in my planner, I was sick of it by the time I was done and the pages were filed in the notebooks.

    So I really didn't make the pattern files until Saturday.  I had lots of help from Sam and Moisés, who were practicing an uneasy detente so that they could both be on my cutting table, sitting on the patterns and chasing bits of paper hither and thither while I tried to work.  You see the trimmings from the laminating sheets above right after Moises learned that he could slide on them.  I hoped he would be in the picture but unfortunately he slid right off the table just before I snapped the picture.  

  • Beethoven, The Emerson, The Alexander, and Me

    I grew up
    listening to Beethoven.  Actually I
    probably grew up listening to Beethoven, Bach and Brahms, but it is the
    Beethoven that I remember.   
    I remember my father placing his LP’s lovingly on the turntable, the
    large speaker he had made from a kit. 
    I remember how he set the pressure on the stylus as lightly as possible,
    so that the needle would just kiss the surface of the LP:  just enough to extract the sound
    without wearing out the LP.  I
    don’t actually know if you wear out LPs but I remember that is what I was
    told.  I remember learning not to
    run through the house, not to allow a door to slam, that such noises would
    cause the old wooden boards to shake and the needle to skip.  Scratching Beethoven was a capitol
    offense.

     Later, when
    I was finally allowed to take the piano lessons I had been craving since I was
    4 or 5 (I was 16), my piano teacher wanted me to perform a piece by Beethoven
    in a competition.  I played it the
    way I had heard it on my dad’s recordings.  But my teacher told me that was wrong, that it needed to be
    more gentle and melodic and I learned to play it her way.  My father told me my teacher was wrong
    and I was torn.  I always aimed to
    please, too uncertain of my own tastes and opinions, too eager to please.  In the competition I played for my
    teacher.   The judges said I
    could have won if I understood Beethoven better, if I had played the piece my
    father’s way.

     The music of
    Beethoven was like a part of me; but a part of me I am not sure I ever fully
    understood.  It was there, I recognized
    it, but I did not know it.

     Years later,
    G and I went to a series of concerts at Lincoln Center.  It was 1997 and the Emerson Quartet was
    presenting the complete Beethoven Quartet Cycle, with other works, in a series
    of 8 concerts. I was in heaven. 
    When the cycle was released on CD, G and I bought the set.  For years, when we listened to a
    recording Beethoven string quartets, we listened to the Emerson play them.

    Just this
    past week I have listened to them again, and I have made a rather shocking
    discovery.  I don’t like the
    Emerson Quartet’s performance of the Beethoven String Quartets, at least I
    don’t like the recorded performances. 
    I don’t like them at all, with, perhaps, the exception of No. 11 in F
    minor, but that one quartet is not enough to redeem a series of recordings that
    seem emotionally void, empty, and vapid, even if precisely and expertly
    performed.

    I am forced
    to wonder what I was listening to. 
    Was I listening, actually listening, or I was listening through the ear
    of memory, through the haze of the desire, through the fog of expectation?  I really don’t know. The truth is often
    listened to these CDs in the car, when we were travelling somewhere, and the
    car is a less than ideal venue for music.  The noise of the car, the road, conversations, the
    distractions of driving — listening to music in the car can be as much about
    expectation as what is actually heard.

    It came to
    my attention, while sorting through our CD collection for an upcoming project,
    that we have two complete sets of the Beethoven String Quartets, and another
    set of just the late quartets.    This came as a bit of a surprise; I expected
    some overlap, just not quite so much. 
    Of course I had to listen to them to see if we actually needed all three
    recordings.

    The entire exercise makes me question if I would have liked the
    Emerson’s rendition more if it had been the first recording I listened to.  But it wasn’t. 

    First I
    listened to a recording of the late quartets by the Alexander quartet.  I purchased it after a concert in which
    I had been completely blown away by the music.  They performed Beethoven and Shostakovich and I bought
    recordings of each.  I recall that
    G asked me at the time why I needed more Beethoven when we had the Emerson at home,
    and I had said that I didn’t recall the Emerson sounding like “that” meaning
    the concert we had just heard.  But
    after I got home, and listened to the recording a few times, it was just filed
    away and forgotten.

     My loss.

     I was
    immediately struck by the emotion and power the Alexander Quartet brought to the
    music.  The music was gripping:  sometimes shockingly aggressive,
    sometimes meltingly tender and filled with humanity.  I sat on the edge of my chair, gripping the armrests,
    remembering how I felt exactly this same way at the performance two years
    before.  Admittedly there were
    times when the players seemed to skim past a few notes and this was even more
    evident when I compared the playing to that of the Emerson.  But I seem to be a person who reacts to
    music on an emotional, almost visceral, level, and to me, the emotional depth of
    the performance seemed to far surpass the minor imperfections.

     Listening to
    the same piece as recorded by the Emerson was a disappointment.  Yes, the notes were recognizably the
    same.  But the music seemed cold
    and almost superficial; they were playing Beethoven but it was only a shadow of
    Beethoven.  The overwhelming
    spirituality of the 15th quartet was particularly lacking.  My mind wandered; in fact there were
    times when the performance seemed almost boring.  The music was a background melody to the landscape of the
    mind.  There was nothing
    compelling, nothing to make me take notice.

     At this
    point I turned to the third set of Beethoven String Quartets in our
    possession.   This set was by
    the Takacs Quartet and I was eager to see how they compared in this case.  In terms of the late quartets at least,
    they came in second best. Technically I think the playing was tighter and even
    richer than the Emerson, and there was emotion and depth to the performance, but my heart had already been won over  by the pure  power of the Alexander Quartet.

     I didn’t
    stop there however.  I went on to
    compare the Emerson and Takacs in selections from the early and middle
    quartets.  Here the Takacs really
    surpassed the Emerson in terms of power, emotion, and precision.  Both groups seem better suited to the
    earlier quartets than to the late quartets.  Even so, the recording by the Takacs Quartet displayed a
    strong balance of precision, emotion and grace, at times seeming almost edgy in
    its strength.  The Emerson
    occasionally seemed scattered and disconnected; in fact I think their
    performances were superior on the late quartets, at least as compared to their
    own performances of the early quartets. 

     I am no
    longer particularly interested in the Emerson Quartet's Beethoven recordings,
    but I will keep them because G adores them and I am not going to force my point
    of view on him.  Instead of
    eliminating a set of CDs it seems I will have to add more, because now I want
    to hear the Alexander Quartet’s version of the early and middle quartets.  If I had not heard the Alexander Quartet, the Takacs Quartet's recording of the Beethoven String Quartets would be my favorite, and they are incredibly beautiful, capturing the range of emotions found in the music, and yet they are not enough….for me.

    But I have heard the Alexander and now I want to find their recordings of the early and middle quartets.  I can understand that they may not be to everyone's taste, but then they are to mine.  But then, I like Mahler too, so obviously outrageous eruptions of emotion are right up my alley.